ND filter question

Started May 3, 2013 | Discussions
baneling
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ND filter question
May 3, 2013

Hi all, I'm looking to buy some 77mm screw-on ND filters.  A 3, 5 and 10 stop filter.  I read once in an article that some can cause vignetting if put on certain cameras/lens.  is this common?  Should I make sure to try one on my camera before buying?  I will be using it with my Canon T3i (600D) and my Canon 10-22mm ultra wide lens.

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mbernard
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Re: ND filter question
In reply to baneling, May 3, 2013

No need to worry if you buy a slim type filter (Heliopan, Hoya or BW).

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baneling
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Re: ND filter question
In reply to mbernard, May 4, 2013

Aren't they all slim? What's an example of one that is not slim?

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hirejn
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Re: ND filter question
In reply to baneling, May 4, 2013

They're not slim unless they say they're slim. An example of one that's not slim would be every screw-on in existence that isn't slim. When you see both side by side, you'll see a big difference. The slims are slim and the non-slims are not.

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baneling
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Re: ND filter question
In reply to hirejn, May 4, 2013

Slim and non slim are relative. Around how many mm is considered slim and around how many mm is considered non slim?  Because all the screw on filters I've seen are around the same thickness

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Clueless Wanderer
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Re: ND filter question
In reply to baneling, May 5, 2013

baneling wrote:

Slim and non slim are relative. Around how many mm is considered slim and around how many mm is considered non slim?  Because all the screw on filters I've seen are around the same thickness

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..Specific to manufacturers spec's.
If you got the cash, B+W filters are made of brass so don't jam together like aluminum ones do. I have a Hoya Pro Polarizer and its a whore to take off. The B+W 10 stop ND unscrews beautifully..

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hotdog321
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Re: ND filter question
In reply to Clueless Wanderer, May 5, 2013

I've got a 77mm Nikon thin CP and the ring is about 4.5-5mm in thickness. No sign of vignetting on a 16mm full frame camera at f/22, so I'm pretty sure a slim ring will work fine on your 10-22.

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baneling
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Re: ND filter question
In reply to Clueless Wanderer, May 5, 2013
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baneling
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Re: ND filter question
In reply to baneling, May 5, 2013

and is this a good price for the 110M?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/200921510691?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649&autorefresh=true

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baneling
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Re: ND filter question
In reply to baneling, May 5, 2013

Hi, I was told with my Canon T3i and Canon 10-22mm, that i'll see some vignetting below 18mm.  is this true?

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Hank3152
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Re: ND filter question
In reply to baneling, May 5, 2013

baneling wrote:

Hi, I was told with my Canon T3i and Canon 10-22mm, that i'll see some vignetting below 18mm.  is this true?

Before I went full frame I used the 10-22 on a 7D with a standard B+W CP filter and remember seeing slight vignetting appear around 13mm and below. You probably won't see any with a slim ND filter.........

You might get more responses posting in the Canon Lens Talk forum

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Hank3152
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Re: ND filter question
In reply to baneling, May 5, 2013

baneling wrote:

Slim and non slim are relative. Around how many mm is considered slim and around how many mm is considered non slim?  Because all the screw on filters I've seen are around the same thickness

Most standard filters are around 4-5mm thick and the slims are around 3mm, their drawback being slightly more expensive and there are no longer threads up front to mount a lens cap.

Here is a reputable, competitive retailer in the northern US, with a FAQ section...........

http://www.2filter.com/

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acipriano
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Re: ND filter question
In reply to baneling, May 6, 2013

Avoid stacking it over a UV filter...  Consider using a Cokin filter holder and Lee filters... or just hold the Lee filter in front of the lens when needed...

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Sailor Blue
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Re: ND filter question
In reply to baneling, May 6, 2013

Vignetting is most apparent when shooting with wide apertures, especially if you add a filter to the lens.  As you close down the aperture vignetting is reduced.  Shoot RAW and you can do a pretty good job of correcting some vignetting.

Your lens will be sharpest between f/5.6 and f/11.  Even if shooting at f/16 you will be starting to lose a bit of sharpness due to diffraction. It gets worse as the aperture closes down.

You will get your best balance of sharpness and vignetting by shooting at f/8 to f/11 or possibly f/16.  You will need to test to find the best combination with your lens and filter.

Another problem you will encounter with many ND filters is color contamination.  Not too long ago someone posted a 10 stop ND filter shot here that had a strong purple color contamination.  Be sure to shoot a gray card at a minimum and better yet shoot a X-Rite ColorChecker Passport and do a full color calibration of your images.

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baneling
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Re: ND filter question
In reply to acipriano, May 6, 2013

i looked into this and i got confused.  there seems to be two parts that attaches to the lens and the rectangular filter itself.  can you give me specific names and product numbers?

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baneling
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Re: ND filter question
In reply to Sailor Blue, May 6, 2013

thanks for the info.  as far as the last paragraph, i'm just an ameteur so I'm not going to do that stuff.  maybe the guy who used the 10 stop ND filter used a cheep one?

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Clueless Wanderer
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Re: ND filter question
In reply to baneling, May 10, 2013

I your wanting an ND 10 stay away from slide in filter holder's.
The screw in ND 10 is sooo dark that I even have issues with the lens distance viewing window leaking light into the exposure. Im not talking a cheap lens either, its a pro grade lens and needs black tape over the window to keep it dark. Slide in filters allow light in behind them
However if you using ND Grad's the slide in ones are the way to go. I can't recommend Hitech slide in filters enough. For ND 10 I have a screw on B+W one which has a really warming effect to the image so it needs a grey card test shot.
If your not familiar with grey cards: Just get a cheap 6x4 or smaller if they do one from you local camera shop. You take your shots and the last one (assuming there has been no ambient light colour change) you take a single shot with the same setting but holding the grey card up.
Then in post processing,  you just get the grey point/White balance eye dropper and click on the grey card. Now you have a correct white balance and apply the numbers to all the images in the set.
 It may seem a lot of hassle, but it saves you loads of time in post production and because you know the numbers to be correct, you can edit on a non calibrated monitor, because even though it may look a funny colour on your screen, you are secure in the knowledge that the White balance in the file is correct. 
I first got a grey card because of my ND 10 colour cast. Now I shoot a grey everytime I get the camera out. It just makes life so much easier in post production..

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baneling
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Re: ND filter question
In reply to Clueless Wanderer, May 10, 2013

the problem is, what if i want both an ND 10 stop screwed onto the lens and a 3 stop grad slide in?  can that be done?

I don't quite understand your use of the gray card.  is there an article online that describes your procedure in more detail?

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Clueless Wanderer
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Re: ND filter question
In reply to baneling, May 11, 2013

baneling wrote:

the problem is, what if i want both an ND 10 stop screwed onto the lens and a 3 stop grad slide in?  can that be done?

I don't quite understand your use of the gray card.  is there an article online that describes your procedure in more detail?

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Mmm.. er okay I thought I had explained the grey card pretty straight forward..

I would just google: 'How to use a grey card for white balance' or something to that effect.
That stack you talk of depends on the lens and focal length used. The higher you stack anything, the more chance of Vignetting. You would at least need a Cokin Z pro size holder.
I have a Nikon 24-70mm and at 24mm it can take a screwed on filter plus filter holder with only 2 slide holders out front with no vignetting. The third slide holder was put on the rear, out of the way, to stop the vignetting. If I add anything else, I then have to take it to around the 28mm mark.
If im doing long exposure's, I use the screw on B+W ND 10 and on top of that a screw on Hoya pro circular polarizer. At ISO 200 with that stack, an f2.8 lens at f16 in blistering hot bright sun, Im getting correct exposures at around the 60 seconds mark..

What software do you use?

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acipriano
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Re: ND filter question
In reply to baneling, May 11, 2013
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