NEX-F3 frustration--is this related to ISO 200?

Started Dec 4, 2012 | Questions
D Cox
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Re: NEX-F3 frustration--is this related to ISO 200?
In reply to ShinyFace, Dec 5, 2012

ShinyFace wrote:

Read the artist's biography on

http://www.phrasikleia.com/

to get some idea of why her photos are better than most people's.

Do _not_ go rushing out to buy a "better camera". You might consider, if you can afford it, getting one good prime lens.


I appreciate reading about her, that is the inspiration I need

Which prime would offer a completely different experience from the kit lens (or the Sigma 30 because I have that coming in the mail)?

Legacy lens appeals greatly to me, as I learned a long time ago to take pictures on a film 35mm camera and miss the way those lenses feel. I already use manual focus, but if I don't use a tripod will a legacy lens be disastrous? And which are best for compatibility with NEX?

You only need a tripod for the kind of very high detail landscapes that you are aiming at.

90% of shots with a NEX can be done hand held, especially shots of people. The point is that camera movement is the main cause of unsharp images - and OSS only helps a bit.

Something like a 90mm or 100mm lens would be quite different from the 30, and lenses of these lengths from any well known maker will be good.

But I strongly recommend _not_ buying any more gear for a few months at least, while you get to know the camera and the 30mm lens thoroughly.

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Sdaniella
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your NEX-F3 frustration is related to shooting FULL SUNLIT scenario vs FULLY SHADOWED scenario
In reply to ShinyFace, Dec 5, 2012

ShinyFace wrote:

Panasonic FZ-series

...being uneducated

the brightest zones in this 1st pic are the sky and its reflection in water (40% area)
the darkest zones are the trees/foliage/boat, beach grounds FULLY SUNLIT (60%) with clearly distinct sunshadows.

at dusk with similar lighting

NO... the only similarity is that it was sunny at dusk

the brightest zones in this 2nd pic below are the sky behind the mountains and minority portion of the mountan tops (40% area)
the darkest zones are the rocks/bush-foliage/road/ground/ROAD ENTIRELY IN SHADOWS (60%) none being directly sunlit (you are shooting in the shadow, and your subject MOSTLY is IN the SHADOW ENTIRELY) There are no HARSH distinct shadows, because your exposure is set to target the entire shadowed landscape in view. (this is why the sky here appears so nearly blown out)

that's a BIG difference. (it's identical to taking a shot in the SHADOW of a building shadowed by larger objects (more mountains behind you?) at dusk (or even indoors; and expecting indoor 'shadowed' scenery to look 'right') vs a shot on the sunny side of a fully sunlit building (both facing away from the sun))

NEX-F3, ISO 200, f/4, 1/60, 1EV (kit 18-55)

so the comparison is of extremes, rather than similarities.

 Sdaniella's gear list:Sdaniella's gear list
Canon EOS 5D Mark II Canon EF 24mm f/1.4L II USM Canon TS-E 24mm f/3.5L II
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ttan98
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ShinyFace - Summarised Your Findings
In reply to ShinyFace, Dec 6, 2012

Hi,

I also own a F3 as well as a 5n, after the contributions from so many readers, I am sure you are have some ideas on how to improve your images based on your own findings and contributors from others.

I would appreciate if you can share with us your findings by giving us a summary.

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Sdaniella
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EV (exposure 'light' value) scenarios are entirely different as well as FOV/DOF...
In reply to Sdaniella, Dec 6, 2012

Panasonic FZ28 Super Zoom (27-486mm FF equivalent FOV Zoom)

Using:
Lens set at: 8.2mm (46.1mm equivalent Full Frame (FF) FOV)
f/4 = 8.2mm/4 = 2.05mm aperture diameter
Shutter speed: 1/160s
Sensitivity: ISO 100
Calculated EV = 11.32 EV (considerably bright)
FF equivalent DOF: 46.1m/2.05mm = f/22.5 (very deep DOF!!!)

vs

Sony NEX-F3: 18-55 (27-82.5mm FF equivalent FOV Zoom)

Using:
Lens set at: 22mm (33mm equivalent Full Frame (FF) FOV)
f/4 = 22mm/4 = 5.5mm aperture diameter
Shutter speed: 1/60s
Sensitivity: ISO 200
Calculated EV = 8.91 EV (not particularly as bright)
FF equivalent DOF: 33mm/5.5mm = f/6.0 (medium DOF; not too deep; not too shallow)

Traditional 'sunny day' lit scenery is ISO 100 f/5.6 1/60s (EV 10.88!!!) as 'reference'

Thus your Panasonic FZ28 scenery was exposed 'auto' at least that bright (EV 11.32), your scenery is clearly IN THE SUNLIGHT of a sunset.

and your Sony Nex-F3 scenery was exposed 'auto' nowhere that bright at only (EV 8.91) [more proof you're in the SHADOWS!!! (very close to well-lit indoors) you clearly are in the 'shadow' of sunset (dusk), not IN the sunlight]

if you happen to be a whiz in Excel (spreadsheets) and math, you could generate your own FULL EV calculator to see how different camera settings compare at different ISO, speed, f/stops.

the formula for EV, is here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exposure_value

FOV = Field of View (Angle of View): lower mm value, wider the shot

DOF = Depth of Field: smaller the aperture diameter (smaller f/value fraction) , the deeper the depth of field. f/1 is larger diameter than f/64 (tiny diameter); f = focal length of lens

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Canon EOS 5D Mark II Canon EF 24mm f/1.4L II USM Canon TS-E 24mm f/3.5L II
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ttan98
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Re: NEX-F3 images are constantly underexposed
In reply to ShinyFace, Dec 7, 2012

Hi,

I found my F3 to be underexposed as much as 1/3 to 2/3 similar to what DCresource has discovered.  Go to this site for details.

http://www.dcresource.com/reviews/sony/nex_f3-review?page=0,3

I found also taking using center metering the images tend to overexpose the images when shooting landscape, on most occasions I use multi-metering for landscape images.

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FuzzyQball
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Re: NEX-F3 images are constantly underexposed
In reply to ttan98, Dec 7, 2012

Multi area metering makes a lot of sense, and I have found it works well.  My 5n does a pretty food job on exposure, with very little adjustment required on the jpegs.

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Glenn

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Sony Alpha NEX-5N Sony E 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 OSS Sony E 55-210mm F4.5-6.3 OSS Sony E 16-50mm F3.5-5.6 PZ OSS
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ttan98
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Re: NEX-5N and NEX-F3 metering comparisons
In reply to FuzzyQball, Dec 7, 2012

I bought F3 as a backup camera for my 5N. My findings for exposures under centre and multi metering  for both cameras are quite different. A summary according to my eyes are:

Multi                              Centre

Nex F3                under exp. 1/3-2/3 eV       over exp. 1/3 eV

Nex 5N                under exp. <1/3 eV          accurate

Those interested may like to prove whether the above is correct.

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ttan98
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Re: NEX-5N and NEX-F3 metering comparisons revised
In reply to ttan98, Dec 7, 2012

ttan98 wrote:

I bought F3 as a backup camera for my 5N. My findings for exposures under centre and multi metering for both cameras are quite different. A summary according to my eyes are:

Multi Centre

Nex F3 under exp. 1/3-2/3 eV over exp. 1/3 eV

Nex 5N under exp. <1/3 eV accurate

Those interested may like to prove whether the above is correct.

The above looks confusing because it is not formatted correctly.

Nex F3  Multi metering = under exp. 1/3-2/3 eV, Centre metering = over exp. 1/3 eV

Nex 5N  Multi metering = under exp. < 1/3 eV, Centre metering = accurate

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