Getting your shots leveled for architecture,.. aargh

I am getting more and more into shooting buildings. and getting somewhat frustrated too 

I find it very hard to get right in photoshop (and I am very experienced with photoshop) so the best route is to get it right in the field, as always.

Using the built in level of the D800 just doesn't cut it. Once you have it set you can still move the camera a bit left or right and it will still tell you the shot is level. Still much better than doing this by eye.

Next is the built in level in my tripodhead,.. somehow it's not level?? how can a level be off?

Last I have the little hotshoe level and even with that I could use some improvement.

Today I put a carpenters level on top of my camera and that has a much bigger scale and therefor more precise.... but not really mountable and not nice to lug around in the field.

Last on the list is the Iphone, it has a nice app which does 0.1 degree steps.

So it would be very nice to get an iphone mounting device this would give the best results.

The only problem there is that you need to calibrate the iphone and for that you would need a surface that is perfectly leveled... aaaaarg 

Now if only the D800 would show those minimal steps of 0.1 degrees... I am sure they can?

any suggestions tips from the pro's are more than welcome, I am pulling my (last) hairs here

Hi Mark,

As you know, I do a lot of architectural photos. Some I show here from time to time but the majority are for work.

I've found that the D800 internal horizontal axis level is not as accurate in use as the one in my old D700 but even with the D700 it was very difficult to get it completely accurate in the camera. The answer to getting it right in post processing as far as I'm concerned is an extra bit of software called PTLens. It works as a standalone software or as a Photoshop plug-in.

http://epaperpress.com/ptlens/

Ian
Fine Art Photography Website: http://ianbramham.com/

I'd be very surprised if the iPhone's sensors can give that level of precision and accuracy, despite what it's reporting to you.  I think you'd be better off exploring a different avenue.

http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2005894/39228/wixey-wr-365-digital-angle-gauge-wlevel.aspx

http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2005894/18124/wixey-digital-angle-gauge.aspx

I have the second one and use it to insure the camera and copy stand table are parallel. Works well. Never tried it when shooting on a tripod.

I would probably use it to level the tripod head, and then mount the camera with a quick release.

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Robin Casady
http://www.robincasady.com/Photo/index.html

I'm not sure what value would be gained by buying PTLens simply for leveling purposes.  If you are going to level in post you may as well use Photoshop.

On the other hand, I rely on PTLens for lens corrections for a lot of lenses that are not covered by Adobe.  So I do recommend it overall.

--
Mike Dawson

Works every time, even if my equipment is not level:

One more:

Thanks guys.

I even own it, but haven't used it in a long time.

To correct lenses I use Capture NX2 and I think it does a decent job. Agreed?

Or is PT lens that much better?

Now I only want to get the shot as straight as possible, I really don't mind leaning buildings (most of the time) I think it adds a certain dynamic.

Now what I run into is not being head-on to the building. This I want to fix in post, but not being at the right spot and also getting it straight is very hard. Also when I choose to have the leaning buildings I have to have an anchor point (centre image?) for it to be straight otherwise everything goes haywire

This is such a picture, it still looks to be a bit at an angle, but this is the best compromise I had to settle for.

thanks guys!

Cheers,

Mark

Miami Portofino Tower

That is a nice suggestion.

I still would like to mount it on my hotshoe... there must be ways to do that

I would love to see the before version of this one.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=NavBar&A=getItemDetail&Q=&sku=715140&is=REG&si=rev#costumerReview

Surprised no one mentioned this.

I find the D800 is close, then adjust the last bit in post if necessary.

Something not mentioned here is, just like exposure you want to get perspective as right in the camera as possible. So where you position yourself (on a tripod i presume because you're looking at your level) is paramount.

There's usually a sweet spot that combines perspective and composition and if you get it right, you'll just need a barrel distortion correction. So many don't shoot from a high enough vantage and the typical architecture shot has the building(s) bowing inward severely. Many times, if I'm shooting from the street, I'm on my tippy toes using Live View to get the cam as high as possible for the perspective's sake. Sometimes just a few steps in one direction makes a big difference. Keep that camera parallel to the ground too unless you're in an extreme situation. You'll get better with practice.

Also note that the D800's auto distortion works surprisingly well. It still needs correction but I'm spending less time doing that than with my previous cameras.

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http://www.ricmarderimagery.com

this and the the "Free Transform Tool" (and basic lens correction) and you should be able to climb out of most geometry problems - but also I agree with Reilly, the little spirit level that goes into your flash foot does the trick for me most of the time

But also you need to become more aware of  "One Point Perspective" or more specifically you need to learn that if you are close to OPP, you need to nail it OR you should be sufficiently off "One Point" so that it is obvious ... generally speaking, there is a de facto "no man's land" of close-but-not-quite one point that you should avoid in architectural photography ...

Kirk photo has a similar accessory.

The major flaw is that they're easy to loose.

--
Thierry

I don't bother correcting.  Nobody ever  comments on whether buildings are level.

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Without the darkness the light would be nothing !

I just remembered. There is a caveat to using this device. It needs a reference surface to zero it to. That could be a problem in the field. If you can find a vertical or horizontal surface that is plumb, you could use that. Once you have it zeroed, you could leave it on for the rest of your shooting session. I think battery drain is very small. Perhaps zero it before you leave home/work on a shoot.

As for mounting it, I have two ideas. The digital level has magnets on bottom and on one side for holding to a steel surface.

1. If you use a Kirk or RRS L-bracket, you could bolt a 1/8" thick steel plate (just large enough for the magnets) onto a quick release bracket. Clamp the bracket on the side of the L-bracket not being used. The side magnets would attach steel plate. You would need to use a flat-head 1/4-20 machine screw and countersink the plate.
2. You would have to fabricate a flash shoe with a metal plate attaced. 

--
Robin Casady
http://www.robincasady.com/Photo/index.html

In the OP:

--
Robin Casady
http://www.robincasady.com/Photo/index.html

They just think it.

--
Robin Casady
http://www.robincasady.com/Photo/index.html

I agree, but also find the level-tool in Capture NX2 much easier to use.

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Jur

I find the level tool in capture NX2 very hard to use.

you can only draw one line and it's done,so if you're off so is the horizon.

At least with photoshop you can make babysteps,.. so this I do in photoshop.

Lens correction I don in CNX2

thanks,

Mark