SX50 no-Lock vs Lock real user video

Started Oct 25, 2012 | Discussions
Condor
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SX50 no-Lock vs Lock real user video
Oct 25, 2012

Rich took this video starting with no-Lock and activating Lock at the end (Lock is one of the 2 Frame Assist buttons, the new one in fact):

http://www.flickr.com/photos/52977519@N00/8120152556/in/set-72157631845654889/

After this test, nobody should take handheld full zoom photos with an SX50 without pressing the new Lock button. And in others P&S supercameras' case ... well, they just don't have it ...

Ed

Condor
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Re: SX50 no-Lock vs Lock real user video
In reply to Condor, Oct 25, 2012

Since somebody cuestioned the above video as just a mimic of what you would see before and after using the new Lock button...

You can also check this video from a Chinese review site:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=zEOAN_MKmHY

Here you can check the complete review:

http://www.mobile01.com/newsdetail.php?id=12523

The Lock button is reviewed at 0:59, it shows the sever movement of a handheld attempt at full zoom of a very distant subject, then Lock is activated at 1.10. Pay attention to the little focusing frame before and after. Where before reminds me when I tried my Raynox 2.2x TC with my present SX30, and then I even asked Phil to consider an option to increase IS with his CHDK for those purposes

Ed

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ijustloveshooting
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Re: SX50 no-Lock vs Lock real user video
In reply to Condor, Oct 26, 2012

Condor wrote:

Since somebody cuestioned the above video as just a mimic of what you would see before and after using the new Lock button...

You can also check this video from a Chinese review site:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=zEOAN_MKmHY

Here you can check the complete review:

http://www.mobile01.com/newsdetail.php?id=12523

The Lock button is reviewed at 0:59, it shows the sever movement of a handheld attempt at full zoom of a very distant subject, then Lock is activated at 1.10. Pay attention to the little focusing frame before and after. Where before reminds me when I tried my Raynox 2.2x TC with my present SX30, and then I even asked Phil to consider an option to increase IS with his CHDK for those purposes

Ed

just woooowwww....this is the best video that shows what LockOn means....it's an awesome feature and works fantastic....i never thought such a feature can be real,,,,Canon made a great Job there!

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Condor
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Re: SX50 no-Lock vs Lock real user video
In reply to Condor, Oct 26, 2012

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=zEOAN_MKmHY

The Lock button is reviewed at 0:59, it shows the sever movement of a handheld attempt at full zoom of a very distant subject, then Lock is activated at 1.10. Pay attention to the little focusing frame before and after. Where before reminds me when I tried my Raynox 2.2x TC with my present SX30, and then I even asked Phil to consider an option to increase IS with his CHDK for those purposes

Trying to verify if it really was the new Lock feature (new Framing Assist button) the one that stbilized the image, or if it was just the half press of the shutter, or just a stronger handling from the photographer, I carefully checked the video and I realized that when the image was indeed stabilized and clear the Lock icon appeard on the upper right corner of the LCD (Lock activated) and it does not appear on the blurred periods.

Here is the Lock icon taken from that same handheld video.



Reviewer showing the Lock button before testing it off and on



Here is the full zoom image, shutter half pressed (focus-green) but no Lock icon appears at the upper right corner, meaning Lock off.



Handheld full zoom image, shutter half pressed Lock- off (no Lock icon at upper right corner)



And here it is the same shot but with Lock activated, the Lock icon now appears at the upper right corner.



Handheld full zoom image, shutter half pressed Lock-on (Lock icon now appears at the upper rigt corner)

For what it could be worth it,

Ed

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ijustloveshooting
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that's an unique feature no any rivals of SX50 has it....
In reply to Condor, Oct 26, 2012
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jakesan
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Re: that's an unique feature no any rivals of SX50 has it....
In reply to ijustloveshooting, Oct 26, 2012

I don't understand how they do it. It can compensate for quite large camera movement, virtually instantaniously.

It is really remarkable.

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Condor
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Re: that's an unique feature no any rivals of SX50 has it....
In reply to jakesan, Oct 26, 2012

jakesan wrote:

I don't understand how they do it.

Me neither, but based on what we have seen in several tests so far, it really works

It can compensate for quite large camera movement, virtually instantaniously.

As when I evaluated all P&S superzoom cameras 2 years ago, and I realized and I posted that what made SX30 the best superzoom unit at that moment, wasn't its lens, AF, software, etc. but ... just its IS. In fact Pany was better in almost everything else... But this is as when you are evaluating a telescope... one brand could be faster, provide more beautiful images, and obtain more keepers at medium distance, but the one a real telescope's user will choose, is that that provides with the better image of the most distant subject possible. Especially if it is cheaper and doesn’t need extra, expensive and obnoxious hardware to do it (as external TC).



IS performance is the feature that overcomes any other for full zoom handheld shots. And 95-98% of normal real P&S users do mainly take photos handheld; we do not use tripods normally.



Ed

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jakesan
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Full zoom handheld at dusk
In reply to Condor, Oct 27, 2012

Condor wrote:

jakesan wrote:

I don't understand how they do it.

Me neither, but based on what we have seen in several tests so far, it really works

It can compensate for quite large camera movement, virtually instantaniously.

I  took this one last night at sunset.  Was just walking around the yard taking a few quick shots to try the Lock feature.

Hard to believe these less-than-steady hands did 1/25s at 1200mm 



SOOC

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Condor
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Re: Full zoom handheld at dusk
In reply to jakesan, Oct 27, 2012

1/25, handheld, at 1200mm at sunset night? Fantastic full zoom ISO 640 output.

Are you using Fine or SuperFine modes?

Have you tried distant wildlife subjects handheld?

What about BIF attempts?

Ed

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Condor
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Re: SX50 no-Lock vs Lock real user video
In reply to ijustloveshooting, Oct 27, 2012

I found this excellent SX40 vs SX50 video in Youtube, that not only shows what a great advantage is this new more powerfull IS at full zoom, which is called dynamic IS in the video, but also the difference it makes when you shot wide hanheld "walking" sequences on video. As I use to do so frequently in my normal life; gatherings, birthdays, events, tourism, etc.

Take a look:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vTBPKt-CEik

Ed

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jakesan
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More Full zoom handheld at dusk
In reply to Condor, Oct 27, 2012

Went out again this evening but a little later, the the sun had just set behind some thick clouds and it was starting to get dark.

Before you dismiss the shot as total crp ... it is full zoom, hand-held (I do not have steady hands) and shot at 1/6s ! I shot about 20 shots and 3 were like this, 12 were total trash.

If this was a rare critter, I would be a very happy camper!



1200mm, SOOC, ISO400, hand-held 1/6s



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Bev
Bev
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Re: More Full zoom handheld at dusk
In reply to jakesan, Oct 28, 2012

This is using the Framing Assist Lock, which is the bottom button of the two on the lens, right?

How do use it? Do you press the shutter halfway first, then hold in the Lock button while you take the shot?

Thanks!

Bev

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jakesan
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Re: More Full zoom handheld at dusk
In reply to Bev, Oct 28, 2012

Yes, Frame Assist Lock.

Frame the subject.
Press the Frame Assist Lock... the IS goes into overdrive the image is amazingly stable. 
Press shutter half until focus is achieved, (relax) then full press to take the shot.

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Condor
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Re: More Full zoom handheld at dusk
In reply to jakesan, Oct 28, 2012

Thanks so much for your real SX50's user images.

Yes, birds, specially little birds, are really hard to capture at slow shutter speeds since they more than moving, they seems to constantly vibrate.

This allow me to share some of the tricks that I have learned with superzoom P&S and birding.

1.- I use to set the two Customs options in my SX30 for birding (C1 and C2), each one for different situations.

a.- One for when the lowest ISO is the priority (you know, sunny days, closer subjects and when you want and "can" capture the more and better details...

b.- ... and the other for when I just want to get a non blurred image with poor light condiitions (as the conditions you had for your above photo), setting a minimum shutter speed to avoid blurred images (let's say 1/30) and at the same time I set the highest ISO possible. It's a trade-off, and each single machine has different "best" parameters. And in my case since I am an ID birder, and not intersted in publishing the photos but in getting a non blurred image, I use to use the máx ISO.

2.- Both C buttons are set at SX30 maximum full zoom, which is 840mm.  So, when I rapidly turn on my camera at my hips or my chest, it is almost at full zoom when it reaches my eye. Then I use the Framing Assist button if needed, which zooms out enough to locate my subject and I release it to zoom in back. When I half press the sutter it shows me a magnification of the center frame since I had set the "AF-Point Zoom" to "On" on the menu. In SX50 you should add pressing the Lock button before firing.

3.- I use a Binocular Harness, like this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00200BVXS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

It really makes a difference when carrying a superzoom camera on long walks, and it helps with steadiness at the same time (I learned this trick in a birding website). And it is very usefull in so many ocasions as in live concerts.

For what it could be worth it,

Ed

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Bev
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Re: More Full zoom handheld at dusk
In reply to jakesan, Oct 28, 2012

jakesan wrote:

Yes, Frame Assist Lock.

Frame the subject.
Press the Frame Assist Lock... the IS goes into overdrive the image is amazingly stable.
Press shutter half until focus is achieved, (relax) then full press to take the shot.

Thank you very much!  Do you hold the Lock button in the whole time, until after you've taken the shot?  Or do you just press and release it, then focus and shoot?

I know, I know... I need to just get out there and try it for myself instead of asking a bunch of questions. Thanks for your patience!

Bev

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Condor
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Re: More Full zoom handheld at dusk
In reply to Condor, Oct 29, 2012

Condor wrote:

...

This allow me to share some of the tricks that I have learned with superzoom P&S and birding.

1.- I use to set the two Customs options in my SX30 for birding (C1 and C2), each one for different situations.

a.- One (C1) for when the lowest ISO is the priority (you know, sunny days, closer subjects and when you want and "can" capture the more and better details...

b.- ... and the other (C2) for when I just want to get a non blurred image with poor light condiitions (as the conditions you had for your above photo), setting a minimum shutter speed to avoid blurred images (let's say 1/30) and at the same time I set the highest ISO possible. It's a trade-off, and each single machine has different "best" parameters. And in my case since I am an ID birder, and not intersted in publishing the photos but in getting a non blurred image, I use to use the máx ISO.

2.- Both C buttons are set at SX30 maximum full zoom, which is 840mm. So, when I rapidly turn on my camera at my hips or my chest, it is almost at full zoom when it reaches my eye. Then I use the Framing Assist button if needed, which zooms out enough to locate my subject and I release it to zoom in back. When I half press the sutter it shows me a magnification of the center frame since I had set the "AF-Point Zoom" to "On" on the menu. In SX50 you should add pressing the Lock button before firing.

3.- I use a Binocular Harness, like this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00200BVXS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

It really makes a difference when carrying a superzoom camera on long walks, and it helps with steadiness at the same time (I learned this trick in a birding website). And it is very usefull in so many ocasions as in live concerts.

For what it could be worth it,

Ed

I forgot to tell that for C2 setting (1-b; low light - rapid movement conditions) I set 1/30 at Tv mode and that I also turn "Safety Shift" option On on the menu. And that's the setting I save in C2.

This setting (Safety Shift option On, 1/30 on Tv mode) allows the 1/30 to be a minimum and not the obliged shutter speed (If the camera sensors decides 1/30 it is to slow when the shutter is pressed halfway, too much light, it will increase shutter speed as necesary).

Ed

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