Stuck in 2 minds - just wanted to get my thoughts out...

Started May 24, 2011 | Discussions
Herts_JoaTMoN
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Re: Stuck in 2 minds - just wanted to get my thoughts out...
In reply to blue_skies, May 25, 2011

My took my NEX plus 18-55 to my older bothers (age 30) cup final (they also got promoted this season as well). But it couldnt keep up at all. The lighting wasnt great as it was an evening kick off. I couldnt see the 18-200 performance being any better due to the contrast focusing which is what has pushed me towards complementing my NEX with a second camera.

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Herts_JoaTMoN
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Re: Stuck in 2 minds - just wanted to get my thoughts out...
In reply to blue_skies, May 25, 2011

Or surprise the family with a nice getaway.

will any of these options allow me to focus faster on action?

I am sure that the getaway will

Haha I just re read this

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blue_skies
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Re: Stuck in 2 minds - just wanted to get my thoughts out...
In reply to Herts_JoaTMoN, May 25, 2011

Herts_JoaTMoN wrote:

My took my NEX plus 18-55 to my older bothers (age 30) cup final (they also got promoted this season as well). But it couldnt keep up at all. The lighting wasnt great as it was an evening kick off. I couldnt see the 18-200 performance being any better due to the contrast focusing which is what has pushed me towards complementing my NEX with a second camera.

Did you try higher ISO, higher aperture and lower shutter speed? For soccer, you may get away with a shutter speed between 1/150s to 1/250s, no need to go too fast.

The CDAF is the same for 1855 and 18200, and only works on contrast. In lowlight and action you may not have sufficient for the lens to focus.

The metering is 'live view' - what you see is what you get. Higher ISO will help the system somewhat.

More successful is to use MF (not even DMF) and accept a number of wasted shots. Then shoot many shots in burst.

Check http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html

For the NEX, the hyperfocal distance at 55mm and f8 is 60ft. You can see in dofmaster that if you focus at 60ft and f8, everything from 30ft to infinity will be in focus, sufficient for soccer shots. You need to set up the camera so that f8 allows you to shoot e.g. at 1/250s.

So, no need to focus, just aim and shoot. Your (soccer) shots should turn out just fine.

In this mode, the NEX is as usuable as any other camera, and the IS in the lens works remarkably well.

An aXX may allow you to shoot lower ISO, or create more DoF, but you may end up setting up the aXX simirlarly as described, ie. obtaining same results.

Also, if you make prints that are smaller than e.g. 18x20", then you can still crop and have decent prints - meaning the action does not need to be in the center.

As to your experience, there are other optimizations - sports mode, center/weighted/avera metering, spot focus, and so on that all have dramatic effects on your results. I think that the method above will be more successful, but practice makes skills here.

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Herts_JoaTMoN
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Re: Stuck in 2 minds - just wanted to get my thoughts out...
In reply to blue_skies, May 25, 2011

blue_skies wrote:

Did you try higher ISO, higher aperture and lower shutter speed? For soccer, you may get away with a shutter speed between 1/150s to 1/250s, no need to go too fast.

The CDAF is the same for 1855 and 18200, and only works on contrast. In lowlight and action you may not have sufficient for the lens to focus.

The metering is 'live view' - what you see is what you get. Higher ISO will help the system somewhat.

I had the ISO at 3200 or 6400 for most of the match and shot in aperture priority wide open. shutter speeds were around 1/100 i think. I'll have to dig out the photos and check.

More successful is to use MF (not even DMF) and accept a number of wasted shots. Then shoot many shots in burst.

Thats what i ended up doing most of the time. Focus on the box on corners and fire a round of shots off hoping someing interesting would happen. I got fed up of the autofocus not getting it (i swapped between spot and centre a few times but made little to no difference). I left the metering as centre weighted.

Check http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html

For the NEX, the hyperfocal distance at 55mm and f8 is 60ft. You can see in dofmaster that if you focus at 60ft and f8, everything from 30ft to infinity will be in focus, sufficient for soccer shots. You need to set up the camera so that f8 allows you to shoot e.g. at 1/250s.

So, no need to focus, just aim and shoot. Your (soccer) shots should turn out just fine.

In this mode, the NEX is as usuable as any other camera, and the IS in the lens works remarkably well.

An aXX may allow you to shoot lower ISO, or create more DoF, but you may end up setting up the aXX simirlarly as described, ie. obtaining same results.

Also, if you make prints that are smaller than e.g. 18x20', then you can still crop and have decent prints - meaning the action does not need to be in the center.

I had to crop most of the picture pretty heavily at 55mm so the 18-200 would be an improvement in that respect.

As to your experience, there are other optimizations - sports mode, center/weighted/avera metering, spot focus, and so on that all have dramatic effects on your results. I think that the method above will be more successful, but practice makes skills here.

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blue_skies
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Re: Stuck in 2 minds - just wanted to get my thoughts out...
In reply to Herts_JoaTMoN, May 25, 2011

Herts_JoaTMoN wrote:

blue_skies wrote:

Did you try higher ISO, higher aperture and lower shutter speed? For soccer, you may get away with a shutter speed between 1/150s to 1/250s, no need to go too fast.

The CDAF is the same for 1855 and 18200, and only works on contrast. In lowlight and action you may not have sufficient for the lens to focus.

The metering is 'live view' - what you see is what you get. Higher ISO will help the system somewhat.

I had the ISO at 3200 or 6400 for most of the match and shot in aperture priority wide open. shutter speeds were around 1/100 i think. I'll have to dig out the photos and check.

Sounds like it was a fairly dark venue. Assuming you were at max zoom (55mm), your wide-open is limited to f5.6 or so. Not very fast.

More successful is to use MF (not even DMF) and accept a number of wasted shots. Then shoot many shots in burst.

Thats what i ended up doing most of the time. Focus on the box on corners and fire a round of shots off hoping someing interesting would happen. I got fed up of the autofocus not getting it (i swapped between spot and centre a few times but made little to no difference). I left the metering as centre weighted.

You are doing exactly what pro's do - they use a much longer telephoto lens (300-600mm FF equiv), pre-focus and wait for the action to hit their focal zone. But they use faster lenses (f2.8 or so, pricey).

Check http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html

For the NEX, the hyperfocal distance at 55mm and f8 is 60ft. You can see in dofmaster that if you focus at 60ft and f8, everything from 30ft to infinity will be in focus, sufficient for soccer shots. You need to set up the camera so that f8 allows you to shoot e.g. at 1/250s.

So, no need to focus, just aim and shoot. Your (soccer) shots should turn out just fine.

In this mode, the NEX is as usuable as any other camera, and the IS in the lens works remarkably well.

An aXX may allow you to shoot lower ISO, or create more DoF, but you may end up setting up the aXX simirlarly as described, ie. obtaining same results.

Also, if you make prints that are smaller than e.g. 18x20', then you can still crop and have decent prints - meaning the action does not need to be in the center.

I had to crop most of the picture pretty heavily at 55mm so the 18-200 would be an improvement in that respect.

Yes, 4x extra zoom makes a difference. I assume that all pics are at max-zoom (55mm) and not wider.

As to your experience, there are other optimizations - sports mode, center/weighted/avera metering, spot focus, and so on that all have dramatic effects on your results. I think that the method above will be more successful, but practice makes skills here.

You were doing all the right things - sounds like what you need is and a dSLR   and a very fast telephoto lens. You can get f4 for a lot cheaper than f2.8.

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Canon PowerShot S95 Sony Alpha NEX-7 Sony Alpha NEX-6 Sony Alpha 7 Sony a6000 +33 more
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