EVF short blackout and C-AF settings for shooting moving subjects

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Joe Lynch
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EVF short blackout and C-AF settings for shooting moving subjects
1 month ago

I've had an OM-D E-M1 for a little over a week and have used 50-200 SWD four thirds lens with 1.4 convertor with good results, but it takes some getting used to compared to an E-5.

The EVF goes black after the first shot very briefly shooting in C-AF mode in slow burst mode at even 3fps. The shot, however, is good if the focus target was on the target when the shutter was released. But it is jarring to the shooter to loose his subject for even the very short time. I have updated to 1.4 firmware in the camera body.

Is there any way to eliminate the short blackout of the EVF when using 4/3 lenses?

What is actually happening in the camera during this blackout? In other words, why is the blackout happening?

I had good results this morning in bright sunlight when I could get the center target on the dog's head/eyes. Here are some jpeg's cropped but very little else done to them.

Dog Park with E-M1 and 1.4+50-200 SWD 8-10-14

I just don't want to have to get used to the blackout if there is a work-around. The real solution will probably be a m4/3 long lens and m4/3 teleconvertor.

Also, thanks to DonParrot for the following tips from a post from 4 months ago. I would sure like to read of any updates to these settings...

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Then: you have to use the L burst mode ( in the H mode it focuses only once, for the first pic) and I'd recommend limiting it to 5 FPS to accustom to the blackouts. Later you can use 6 or 6.5 FPS but I still am not so sure if this results in a higher keeper trate.

Then: use the biggeer AF field.

Then: Disable AF stop.

Then: Enable the viewfinder IS but disable the IS in burst mode what means enable 'IS off in burst mode'.

Then: I still am not sure, if release priority should be enabled or not. Some days I think, enabling it incresases the keeper rate but on others I come to the conclusion that the opposite is the case. At the end of the day, you have to try yourself what works better for you:

Then: Press the shutter to allow the camera to focus and give the camera following the AF confirmation some tenths of a second time to calculate direction and speed - just as you had to do with the Oly DSLRs.

Then you can start shooting and will get a really pleasing keeper rate - with the 50-200 SWD, that is. As I said, I don't know how the MKI version delivers.

And please note: learning to keep the invisivle AF field on your subject will take some time. Don't ggive up to early, the extra effort will be rewarded with great pics.

And please note too that these adjustments are meant for the FT lenses and the 50-200 SWD in particular. When it comes to shooting action with the µFT lenses, the approach has to be slighly modified.

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Joe

Olympus E-5 Olympus E-M1
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