Bragging about our expensive mirrorless/DSLR vs a point and shoot

Started 6 months ago | Discussions thread
djezraj
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Re: Bragging about our expensive mirrorless/DSLR vs a point and shoot
In reply to mistermejia, 6 months ago

mistermejia wrote:

djezraj wrote:

mistermejia wrote:

Jit L wrote:

Hi mistermejia, which metering mode did you use? I had similar issues in the past with my X-E1 and I found adjusting the metering mode helps plus the AF box as well.

Multi, i guess what the nikon would call it matrix. I tried all three different metering settings. For that situation spot gave me the best to boost the subject in front, but i would have to sacrifice the beautiful background because it would have blown the highlights as always.

What some people here don't understand is that i DID tried shooting that scene in different ways, in manual, A, S, I tried all dynamic ranges and ISO, and yes, that first photo was shot in full AUTO. Like i said, i CAN expose the subject with the camera, i am not stupid, but i would have to sacrifice the background. That's why i re-shot that portrait in RAW to fix it later, since i did not have my SB600 with me. And the pop up flash of the XE1 i find it very weak for those situations indeed.

It is very funny to me when someone jumps right away to insult you without knowing anything about you or not knowing what else you tried already. The usual comment: "I'm sorry but my advice is for you to learn the camera, you shot it wrong, the camera was in AUTO, you needed a ND filter bla bla bla"...

Personally I think there are situations where P&S works better than the Fuji and I use my Canon S100 or iPhone 5 for those. But when I really want to bring out those colors, sharpness, beautiful bokeh from the old manual lenses I turn to Fuji. Probably not the answer you were looking for, just my personal view. Good luck!

I agree. some point and shoot do some things better. I think that better performance or functions of the point and shoot should also be included in the more expensive bodies as well. Isn't that what we are paying for after all, to take easier and faster good looking photos?

I don't have a problem in shooting raw and fixing later, but i do have lots of family in different parts of the world, and i wanted to post THAT photo in facebook right there at that moment, not three days later

Hi Mistermejia. Looking at your posts and history I see a familiar pattern in my own development. It was very often that my Dslr would either produce underexposed subjects or blown out backgrounds. This in stark contrast to some Point and shoots and especially my iPhone using the HDR function which works very well.

So two things are true 1. The iPhone as well as many P&S cameras have incredible jpeg processing, for example Sony's DRO does get high praise. 2. larger sensor cameras such as DSLR and mirror less systems that are geared towards the "pro" or enthusiast market can get equal results but in some cases more work.

I would add that any camera with a leaf shutter does have an advantage and if you discover this I am not sure this is the sole reason for your example.

So If I were to take a guess at what happened at the beach my best guess says that the Sonny has a very good auto mode and auto DRO because it assumes the user has less knowledge or less ambition to decide the best settings, so Sony does this for them,

You may have been better off with auto everything with the Fuji, In the Q menu try these settings DR either auto or 200 (400 may look to washed out) aperture auto and ISO auto. You can also set the Hi tone to -2 to reduce contrast in the hi lights and of course Low tone -2 to bring up the dark contrast. I prefer Pro Neg std for skin tones and hi contrasty backlit scenes but Astia is also nice.

I did tried everything in auto, except AUTO FLASH, i believe i set it to Force Flash. I'll try auto next time, then again by that time i will know to take the SB600 instead

The tone i did have it set to i believe 0 or -1. I'll try that next time just for fun but i don't think it would make a big difference.

The Lo tone set to -2 in combination with DR200 or 400 and the "less contrasty" Pro neg STD should help but your first example at the beach with the 2 subjects was quite underexposed. I do not believe an auto exposure would have throttled back on the exposure so hard. In fact auto may leave the sky a bit overexposed (which can be compensated for). Again you have to play and experiment with it to find your preference but for people I always use Pro Neg STD or Astia Provia and Velvia are for me to contrasty for skin tone.

Remember the tone curve of the Film mode contributes to the shadows as does the DR mode. DP review actually does a good job explaining the relationship of the DR modes and film modes in terms of the resulting tone curve or "resulting contrast" this helped me understand why my shots turned out the way they did.

At this point you may want to save these preferences as a custom setting.

When looking at the screen make sure the camera is letting you preview exposure so you can see the blown out background live. The histogram will also help with this. You can then either use the Exp compensation dial or point the relative centre of the frame to the sky and lock the exposure with the AE lock button (this takes a bit of "button click" practice)

If you are really feeling daring.Again with everything on auto use the menu to put the flash in auto and pop it up. For me in this mode my Xe-2 never misses, however if i override the auto modes the flash will revert to default. You can also dial the flash down in the main menu.

So if you have read this and are thinking (too much work... ) Then perhaps the Sony route all fit your style better for now? No shame in a system thats auto mode suits you better.

Functionality maybe, but color output, i am not sure.

Yeah I am not necessarily saying switch but can't hurt to try, The Sony colour is good perhaps typical of bayer mainstream brands. Good and safe. Nothing wrong with safe!

The X series above the M1 and A1 perhaps are too manual for some. Fuji allows so much user intervention perhaps this is too much for others. For me it is perfect but I admit it takes some getting used to.

Well, as long as there is something in the menu that works I'm completely fine with user intervention and i don't have a problem with that. But if the problem is not the user but the camera, i might have a problem there. Honestly, since i would always read about Fuji's fantastic SOOC jpegs I "thought" these cameras were kind of "optimized" to do mostly everything in jpeg, and that includes exposure and flash, kind of like a point and shoot

Please don't take this the wrong way when I suggest I feel it's the user, I mean this with the utmost respect for your photographic abilities. But there really is no right way for a camera to do your job (Auto) especially if you are not using it in the 100% auto mode.

Fuji has made a conscious choice to buck the trend of the modern Camera approach, The fact that one must make 3 modal changes 1. Aperture 2.shutter speed 3 iso and optionally  flash to equal a single Auto setting on other cameras certainly causes confusion with users wicking to switch modes quickly. Michael Reichman wrote a polarizing comment about the X-T1 in this regard. While shooting a model he sees a beautiful bird and swings up only to realize his settings for the model are not appropriate and he loses the shot.

Is Fuji to blame for releasing such a camera? This is the question we must ask is it us or is it them.

Perhaps we should have 2 cameras? or perhaps we should use an appropriate tool. Or maybe we can learn to adapt to what we have to reach a consensus or "good enough"

It is natural to flip flop between worlds 1. you want to learn 2. you want it to just know what you want. Each brand has its advantages disadvantages.

Correct.

Despite the excellent DRO the Sony systems save for the A7 require to much menu diving for me but I can see how a RX100 or a A6000 might suit you better personally .

I have never looked at this cameras before. I'll check them out one of this days. It would be very very hard for me at this point if i left Fuji. I really really like the color output. We'll see.

If the A6000 had better lenses and more direct control id look too. It's a good value.

Before making any rash decisions perhaps try the all auto mode with Kit lens and let the camera do what it does, and analyze what settings it chooses. Also tr the film and shadow settings on the same scene and see how close you can get.

I'll try that, but then again what's the point if the photo comes out very dull with no color

There is always colour unless you are in B&W, Exposure is everything, Remember the P&S Sony is basically doing post processing in camera. It;s the happy meal of cameras win win right?

I encourage you to ask your friend for the Pics from the Sony and look at them on a larger screen, perhaps there is more to this tale? You may find the colour too vivid? Put the sony in another scenario and perhaps the opposite will be true?

Trust me based on the one shot of the people it looks not like my typical auto or properly exposed shot give it more practice,

Oh and try testing the film and DR modes on a overcast day or after a rain. A bright sunny day at the beach makes it difficult t judge on the EVF and screen.

I hope this helps

It sure does Roger, thank you very much. Very good constructive input.

No problem at all I only aim to help as that is what this forum to me is for mostly.

Cheers

Roger

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