PART 2- This Week Through YOUR m4/3 2014.04.19 -PART 2

Started 5 months ago | Discussions thread
Bob Tullis
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Re: E-M1 Water in Motion
In reply to Jim Vincent, 5 months ago

Jim Vincent wrote:

I've been away from any serious camera the last 12 years, since switching from 35mm SLRs to digital p&s. My last several cameras have been Olympus Tough's, and Oly's constant emails got me interested in the OMD enough to finally spring for an E-M1 w/12-40. I've just started with it but am loving it so far.

Yesterday was a beautiful spring day in MN, so, I and a friend drove over to Osceola, WI to take some pictures of the falls there. I wanted to try a slow shutter speed to get the blurred motion of the water and had to set for low ISO, f22, and push the EV about a stop to do it, but, was pretty pleased with the results for a first attempt.

While my friend set up his big tripod and got his Canon ready to start shooting, I walked all around the falls and took about 20 shots hand-held. LOVE this camera's IBIS! Anyway, here's a few of my shots. I'd appreciate any constructive criticism on how to improve my technique with these type of shots.

Jim, a polarizer might be useful, but more so a ND filter to hold back some of the brightness in light such as you had on this day. The ND filter would allow you to keep the aperture at a more reasonable setting (not above f11, preferably no greater than f7-9 to avoid diffraction softening of the details).

For my taste the blown highlight on the flow of water is rather unfortunate. But it's part of the challenge. If you barely clipped them in the field, you'd have recovery in post if shooting RAW. To keep them from blowing completely, your shadows would then be quite dark. But the shadows will have some leeway to raise them to be visually appropriate (again, when developing the shot from a RAW image).

An alterative here would be to shoot several varied exposures, and use a Blending or HDR app to combine the exposures.

Better yet, choose your light. High bright sun on a dappled falls/flow is very difficult. When the light is diffused by haze or overcast, or not directly shining full strength on a location would be the better time to do these type of studies. It's a good excuse to return to known locations, trying them out in different atmospheres (types of weather).

p.s.  none of the flow shots are sharp, which I don't think is solely related to diffraction at f22 -  a tripod is a good idea (or, practice hand-holding technique at slowest shutter speeds).

Stairway to get down to the falls from town.

The two waterfall shots I backed out a stop of exposure and added a touch of clarity and vibrance in LR. The other two are straight from the camera. I just used the in-camera fine JPG.

jim vincent

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...Bob, NYC
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 Bob Tullis's gear list:Bob Tullis's gear list
Olympus E-M1 Olympus M.Zuiko ED 75-300mm 1:4.8-6.7 II Rokinon 7.5mm 1:3.5 UMC Fisheye CS Voigtlander Nokton 17.5mm F0.95 Aspherical Olympus 12-40mm F2.8 +18 more
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