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I don't think I get TTL

Started Apr 11, 2014 | Discussions thread
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Re: I don't think I get TTL
In reply to BurpeesAreHard, Apr 11, 2014

BurpeesAreHard wrote:

Mikess1 wrote:

Mikess1 wrote:

MrChristopher wrote:

Mikess1 wrote:

MrChristopher wrote:

I've been using an x100 and EFx20 for a while now, both in manual mode. I've tried using the flash in TTL but I don't see any difference in the shots I take. I believe TTL adjusts to the environment I don't see any changes in the shutter or aperture or ISO other differences.

I've used auto ISO, shutter and aperture priority, yet I fail to see any difference that TTL makes. I'm not complaining, I'm pleading ignorance.

I'm posting in hopes some of you can enlighten me on what to expect as well as how to get the most out of TTL. In some instances, at least in theory, I can see where it could be beneficial (like at an event).

Also, I picked up an XE1 the other day so I'm now using it as well. Thanks

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say what now? if you are in fact using TTL then no matter where the flash is or what your camera settings are you will get what the flash thinks is perfect exposure you will get the same exposure for every shot you take unless you use the flash exposure composition to lighten or darken the shot hope this helps

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are you saying the flash output changes as needed and the shutter and/or aperture/ISO do not change?

Sorry to sound dense, but if I wasn't dense on this subject I would not have posted

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yes the flash output changes as needed and the shutter and iso should not change unless of course your in a auto mode


the faster the shutter speed or the higher the aperture the more power the flash will automatically use

You shouldn't think of it this way. You're right that closing the aperture cuts down on the amount of light from the flash, but the flash is much faster than the shutter. MrChristopher is using a camera with a leaf shutter, which can sync at much faster speeds than your X-T1, and any shutter speed within the sync range is fair game.

Older flashes that have an 'auto' mode, using a sensor on the front of the flash itself to cut off the light, have adjustments for ISO and aperture, so the flash can calculate approximately how much light the camera is getting, but no input for shutter speed. It isn't needed. Modern 'flash calculator' apps are the same way.

(not counting whatever FP high speed sync flashes might do, as part of a sequence, since we aren't talking about those)

Or you can also open up the aperture and slow down the shutter, as permitted, along with lesser flash power for the so called dragging the shutter technique.  It's popular among wedding and event photographers when they want to incorporate as much ambient and use as little flash as possible to avoid the shadow on the face and shot in the cave flash look.

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