WHO OWNS THE NEW CANON REBEL 5TI ???

Started 9 months ago | Discussions thread
dinoSnake
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Re: WHO OWNS THE NEW CANON REBEL 5TI ???
In reply to Teresa in Florida, 9 months ago

Teresa in Florida wrote:

leonche64 wrote:

This is not a 5TI problem, this is a photography issue. Your ISO is way too high at 3200 bring it down to 400. Next, bring your f stop down from 18 to around 3.5. I promise your next photo will be better.

ok I retook the photo......

here it is

Wow, amazing, just...amazing. Pages and pages of replies in a thread and yet the vast majority of them aren't even addressed to the OP, they are addressed to one another in a game of one-upsmanship to try to prove who can make the more pertinent point.

Teresa, I have not read your other threads but there several problems in this photograph, all of which can be addressed with some simple understanding on what is going on "behind the scenes".

You state that you do not understand Av, P, Tv, etc, so let's start with a quickie basics.

The basic process of recording a photograph consists of three parts - Aperture, Shutter speed and Sensitivity. The Aperture is a hole through the lens that lets in light; the smaller the hole the less light comes in. Shutter speed is how fast that shutter open and closes in front of the recording system / medium, and faster = less light. Sensitivity is "how much" the recording system reacts to that light, more sensitive = "more light" in the final image.

But there are things you must understand in the scales that these systems use. In simple words:

Aperture: higher numbers = smaller hole = less light (yes, that seems backwards but it is important to remember)

Shutter speed: if looking at the scale that says "1/x" ("x" being a number), the larger that "x" number = faster shutter = less light (so 1/4000 lets in less light than 1/60). Once you get to whole numbers (no fraction "1/x"), the larger the number = slower shutter = more light (so 4 lets in more light than 2). Again, important to remember.

Sensitivity: higher numbers = more light

OK, let's fix that photo the easiest way possible.

1) Put your camera into "Auto ISO" mode. The camera will, most often, select the lowest ISO (lowest ISO number) it can get away with to still make the photo in this mode. High ISO numbers let in more light but they also blur the photo more because of "noise", a smearing side effect of high sensitivity. You want to use the LOWEST sensitivity at any moment that you can get away with in order to lower noise and make things sharp.

In your photograph the ISO needs to be lower in order to get a much sharper final image.

2) Av, Tv, P etc. are settings that tell the camera what you want to set while the camera automatically takes care of something else. "Av" mode means that you set the aperture (hole in the lens) while the camera automatically sets shutter; "Tv" mode means that you set the shutter speed while the camera automatically sets aperture while "P" mode means that the camera automatically sets BOTH shutter and aperture. Small pocket cameras operate in "P" mode but large cameras like this give you, the user, the choice to override some or all of the functions.

For this experiment set your camera to "Av" mode, "aperture preferred" is what photographers call it, it is the most popular mode. Why? Because that hole in the lens, the aperture, not ONLY regulates light but also regulates how much front-to-back is in focus in the final picture. This is called "Depth of Field" and, in Av mode, the user can make that choice for him/herself.

3) THE FINAL PART OF THIS PUZZLE; metering of this particular scene.

"Metering" is how the camera actually determines how much light it needs to let in to make the picture. That calculation is changed into the three factors we just discussed - aperture, shutter and sensitivity - to actually make a good photograph.

The PROBLEM is that, well, cameras are STUPID. You would like to THINK that cameras are looking at the scene, and seeing a room, like you are but they just aren't that smart. Even with all of today's technology. The camera looks at a portion, or all, of the scene based upon the "Metering mode' that you have set in the camera, in your case, four:

• Evaluative metering
• Partial metering
• Spot metering
• Center-weighted average

and then tries to make a guess as to what that calculation should be. But cameras don't see as we do, so sometimes the calculation is off.

Your picture up above has a problem - all that dark area and then a very, very bright patch. The camera is fooled - it sees all that dark and only a bit of light, so it pays more attention to the larger dark area. But cameras can't get very bright and very dark together, it is too much of a difference. So, in your case, your highlights are blown, they went so bright because the camera was only paying attention to the dark areas that the very brightest spots just went all bright white. And bright white has no details.

The last piece of the puzzle for your particular shot is to understand that the camera is being fooled and that you must tell it what to do. Try this:

For this shot you must go into the settings of the camera and set "Partial metering". This setting tells the camera to only pay attention to the center area of the picture.

Now go and place the teddy bear in the exact center of the picture. You may have to adjust where you stand, and that will change the final look of the picture, but we are simply doing an experiment to see how it all goes.  We are trying to get a great photograph of the teddy bear.

So: Av mode, Auto ISO, Partial metering. If the camera warns you that it has run out of shutter speeds it can use - it blinks "1/4000" - then use your control dial to set a larger-number aperture (smaller hole, let in less light).

Now go take that picture again. If you want to experiment more, use your control dial to set many different apertures, taking a shot each time, so you can see the results.

Post the results here and hopefully they will be much better for you!

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