X-E1 vs X-M1 for novice

Started 8 months ago | Discussions thread
wyldberi
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Re: X-E1 vs X-M1 for novice
In reply to vargan8, 8 months ago

vargan8 wrote:

I currently have the hx9v and looking to upgrade to a mirror less. I mostly shoot when i travel, and at times this involves low light indoor and outdoor.

At first, I wanted to upgrade to NEX6 until I saw somewhere that the X E1 had better image quality at low light/high iso. Now I'm looking at the E1 and M1 but just not sure which to get.

When researching the image quality differences in the X line I found some interesting things:

-some said that M1 and A1 were similar images depending on the type of processing
-others that A1 > M1
-and that M1 little better than E1 due to new sensor

I was able to look at the M1 and E1 bodies, but was not able to power. I was already resigned that this will be much bigger than my current camera, so the size difference isn't an issue.

E1
+ Fells better in hand
+ I like the idea of easily changing manual controls
+ looks nicer
+ better kit glass
+ EVF
- Full manual might not be suited for new user

M1
+ Tilting LCD
+ New sensor
+ Face detection
- no EVF (although haven't had one to use)
- cheaper kit glass
- Not quite as nice looking/feeling

I'm certainly leaning towards the E1, but the one negative thing is a major deterrent, seems most who buy E1 already have full DSLRs and experience.

On the other hand the full manual is precicesly the thing that would make learning it easier.

I have never shot in RAW before, but neither have i edited my photos on the computer. I don't really see myself starting to either, unless i see a good reason to.

Would the E1 be too much of a jump from a P&S? Are there any novices who purchased it? Also at times I will have to had the camera to someone to shoot, how would this work out?

One of the biggest features of the Fuji cameras is the inclusion of the manual controls. They allow the photographer to take complete technical and artistic control of his tool. That's when the controls are set to full manual.

The Fuji cameras also have the same automatic and programmable features that most other cameras have. There is a shutter priority mode, an aperture priority mode, and an ISO priority mode. Or, you might choose to manually set the shutter and aperture controls, and let the camera calculate which would be the best ISO setting - that can be the only exposure control that is left on automatic. Likewise, you can use the autofocus features, or decide you want to control the focus manually; and there are features such as focus peaking that makes that easier. If you need to hand your camera to someone to take your picture with, it's a simple matter to set the controls to put the camera into fully automatic mode and turn it into an expensive point and shoot with spectacular optics.

As far as being a newcomer to photography goes, you've identified a key advantage to having a camera with manual controls. These allow a person to select the shutter speed or aperture, change those values, and then get instant feedback on what the changed setting does. Instead of adding complexity, it actually helps a person learn the basics of photography; there is no need to go searching through confusing menus to locate the controls that govern those settings. Manual controls allow you to keep your attention focused on the subject you're shooting.

Most of the more expensive cameras today permit the photographer to shoot in raw format. It's a choice that works for some; but not a choice that's forced upon them. Like the other major brands, Fuji cameras allow you to shoot in RAW only; or in JPEG only; or in both RAW and JPEG at the same time. As for image quality, the JPEG images the Fuji cameras produce are excellent; most likely best in class of any camera made today. Many professional photographers have switched from shooting only RAW, to delivering at least some of the Fuji JPEG's directly to their clients.

Myself, when I shoot RAW files, I use the RAW + JPEG mode. This permits me to use the JPEG's to quickly sort and delete the RAW files I don't want to use. This saves a lot of time and needless work.

I like the EVF on my X-E1 a lot. It has a diopter setting that permits me to use the viewfinder without wearing my glasses if I choose. Since I most frequently wear prescription sunglasses outside during the day, taking my glasses off to shoot is a normal thing for me.

The output files from the X-M1 & X-E1 are both excellent. For my money, if the X-E1 feels and handles better when you hold it, that's certainly an important factor to consider. Add to that the discount prices available on the X-E1 + 18-55mm zoom, and it's a pretty sweet deal. Also, you're correct, the XF 18-55mm lens is considerably better in several respects to the XC 16-50mm.

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