How to shoot with manual lenses on the A7/r?

Started 9 months ago | Discussions thread
djp58
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Re: Aperture value doesn't change with manual lens attached
In reply to SQLGuy, 9 months ago

SQLGuy wrote:

djp58 wrote:

miro3 wrote:

djp58 wrote:

miro3 wrote:

SQLGuy wrote:

miro3 wrote:

kuuan wrote:

Miki Nemeth wrote:

Aperture priority (A) exposure mode is not applicable with a MF lens, since aperture cannot be set with the dials on the A7. M and S modes are very usable, on the other hand, along with manual or automatic ISO.

great summary Miki!

just...A mode works very well, also with manual ISO or auto ISO, only difference is that aperture is set on the lens, not on the camera

So, you have to set the aperture on the lens, and then also set the same aperture on the camera?

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photos mostly taken with manual lenses on Ricoh GXR M, Sony NEX5N, Pentax K-x and *istDs: http://flickr.com/photos/kuuan/

No. Only on the lens. You can't set it on the camera for manual lenses.

But in A mode, the top dial on the back (that sets the aperture) still rotates and changes the value of the aperture.

Isn't that value that the camera takes into account to compute the exposure?

actually, when you have a manual lens attached and camera set to A-mode, neither of the dials do anything. You should see a flashing F-- in the viewfinder/LCD. Exposure should be computed based on the actual aperture setting on your lens. If you are using a legacy lens with a smart adapter (only available for Canon EF and Contax G, I think), then you will be able to set aperture on the camera and this can have some impact on exposure , at least with the Contax G smart adapter, but that is an entirely different thread discussion.

Yes, I am using Contax G lenses with the smart adapter v. II.

So, do you know how to use those lenses and adapter in A mode?

David

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A7 with kit lens and a number of legacy lenses (mostly Canon FD)

It is a bit of a challenge to use this adapter in A-mode, but it can be done. You will need to set your exposure with the lens aperture wide open since the camera meter assumes the lens is wide open when taking the reading and will automatically stop down when you take the shot. Once exposure is set on the camera, you will need to stop the lens down to the correct aperture and then reduce exposure compensation by the same number of stops you changed the lens (i.e. If shooting the 90 f2.8 at f8, you would set EV compensation to -3 because you have reduced the actual amount of light reaching the meter by 3 stops and the camera still thinks it is metering with the aperture wide open.

I find it easier to use this adapter in M-mode, with live-view switched off. Leave the lens aperture wide open and set aperture, shutter speed, and ISO on the camera to give you a correct exposure. After you set exposure on camera, adjust the aperture on the lens to the same as the setting on the camera (camera will show you are under exposing by number of stops you adjusted the aperture on the lens), and take the shot.

Hope this helps.

David

Actually, I don't think this does help. The Contax G system has no interaction between the body and the lenses regarding aperture. In other words, when using a Contax G lens (either on a Contax G body or on a Sony body with the MX Camera adapter) the body doesn't know the aperture set on the lens, and the body cannot set the aperture on the lens.

I think you should refer to the documentation for the smart adapter, but I know for sure that you to set the lens for the actual aperture at which you wish to shoot. The camera cannot stop down the lens for you.

I have heard some statements to the effect that you should set the camera to the widest aperture that the lens supports, but I'm not sure if that is correct. Personally, my guess would be that you should set the aperture on the camera to whatever aperture you want included in the EXIF data for the shot.

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A7 with kit lens and a number of legacy lenses (mostly Canon FD)

You are absolutely correct that the camera does not interact with the lens to change aperture.  However, the camera (Sonys, at least) sets its exposure assuming the lens is wide open and will be stopped down when the picture is taken.

So options are to:

1) shoot A-mode, set aperture on the lens and leave camera aperture at the widest setting - you will get accurate exposure, but EXIF aperture data not correct (will show f2 or f2.8 regardless of actual setting on lens).  This is pretty much identical to shooting any legacy manual lens, except these lenses just show a blank for the aperture.

2) shoot A-mode, set exposure (aperture and ISO) on body with lens fully open, manually stop the lens down to the correct aperture AND adjust EV compensation down by the same number of stops (i.e. if you stop the lens down 3 stops, set EV Compensation to -3) - if you do not adjust EV compensation, your image will be overexposed by the number of stops you reduced the aperture because the camera still thinks the lens is wide open for metering purposes.  EXIF data for aperture will be correct (but will show you set EV compensation to -#stops lens is stopped down).  If you shoot at minimum aperture, you may not be able to fully compensate for the EV difference and your shots will be slightly overexposed (max EV compensation is -5, but lenses are 6 stops).

3) shoot M-mode, set exposure using camera meter and lens wide open (or external meter), manually set lens aperture (ignore the in-camera meter info that says you are underexposing by the number of stops you reduced your aperture) and shoot away.  EXIF data will be correct.

If EXIF data isn't important to you, method 1 is by far the easiest (most of my CG shots use this method).  However, if you want to preserve Aperture EXIF data, you've got to somehow compensate for the fact that the camera meter assumes the lens is wide-open when metering, Methods 2 & 3 do this.  One other thing to note, Live-View On works ok with Method 1, but will show underexposed images in Methods 2 & 3; for this reason, I turn off Live-View when using these lenses.

David

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