Some HS50 shots for C&C

Started 11 months ago | Discussions thread
Andy Hewitt
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Re: Some HS50 shots for C&C
In reply to expressivecanvas, 11 months ago

expressivecanvas wrote:

From looking at your photos in the original post, I was immediately thinking that you simply did two things... you had DR set to its highest setting and it probably was not needed... and that you exposed for the darkest shadows. This brought your shadows up so much that you not only lost an acceptable 'black point', but it almost looks so overexposed that you are bordering on a hazy flaring.

This left your photos hazy, lacking contrast, and flat.

I'm not so sure it's the shooting that's the problem with that, but my inexperience with LightRoom, and post processing the Raws.

In my opinion... I've noticed that people seem to always be trying to get the highest amount of DR as possible, whether the photo needs it or not. If that high dynamic range is not in the scene, this will result in flat images, in my opinion. Of course, if you have a bright sky and most of your subject lost in deep, dark shadows, then you would need to dial in some DR. But, my point is that I am seeing far too many people shooting for a DR400% whether it is needed or not, while metering exposure at the darkest shadows... the result is always a flat photo lacking shadows and a black point.

The dark shadows in a thick forest is what adds interest. Why would someone try to set a tone curve so high that you lose all those mysterious dark shadows? You end up losing the very thing you loved about the scene... deep dark shadows and lush green foliage.

The one photo where the DR was needed is the photo of the plant with the sky as a background... but, the sky is blown out and the plant has no real black point. It has a medium gray point. I suppose it is possible that you are in 'spot metering' and you tend to choose your darkest shadows to meter... that doesn't help in this situation. For some situations, yes, it definitely helps. Not in a scene like this with a bright sky as your background.

As far as what settings to use for the HS50... I have no idea... the HS series does not interest me. It seems to me that Paul has a good handle on shooting these newer high DR Fuji cams though... his shots still do have a good dynamic range yet also have nice shadows and a true black point.

Some good points there Patrick. I have found that there are a couple of 'expert' articles on setting up this camera, which do have some slightly different opinions on the settings that are best. It seems that it's a bit of a black art, rather than science - probably more so than it was back in film days.

I'll keep trying.

Cheers

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Andy Hewitt
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