E-1 metering - question to experienced photographers

Started Jul 23, 2013 | Discussions thread
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babha
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E-1 metering - question to experienced photographers
Jul 23, 2013

Hi to You in the Forum :-)!

Still i am very pleased and happy using E-1!

But after struggling a bit with some high-contrast situations with blown hilight-areas, i am wondering how You deal with the situation.

I wouldn´t be able to say (yet), if this difficulty is (much) worse than with more modern cameras - but i think it is a point (like generelly probably with any FT- and little less mFT-cam).

Take for example a forest. Not to deep shadows. Nicely bright green leaves because of the sun. But a few spots, where the sun hits the ground directly. Result of course: the sunny spots will be blown!

So far i have avoided ESP. As i understand it´s much more "simple" than modern "Matrix"-metering-systems (45 and more areas ..). I haven´t been very lucky using them in criticil light situations aswell (specially if it comes to correction: hard to predict the result). So i left that one out yet.

My first choice is center-weighted metering and correct .. like -0.7 to even -2.0 EV in very difficiult situations. But even that sometimes is not enough.

Additional difficulty: E-1 screen has to low resosultion to give an impression if bright areas are already blown. The shown histogram either doesn´t seem to be accurate. In some images if the right part of the histogram hits just the middle the result will be totally fine - other images though will be pretty underexposed .. !

So the way to go would be: spot-metering the brightest area and correct say 0,3 - 0,7 PLUS not to completly loose the shadows avoiding to totally blow the lights .. - AEL and reframe.

I am rehursing on that one!

(Of course i am aware of the possibility of bracketing and later combine the frames to one "HDR"-pic. To do that "proper" one should use a tripod even in good light .. - AND my goal is to get the best out of just one frame!)

Unfortunatly the harsh blowing of bright light areas in pictures was actually the main reason to give up on my in (m)any other regards beloved e-330 a few years ago. My impression was, that even my only 1 1/7"-sonsor Fuji-Bridge S9100 could do that job better .. without being a master in that regard either.

My little knowledge about DR in digital cameras: the possible range of bright areas above 0 (grey) is about 4 EV, "usable" perhaps 3 EV to stay on the save side. Unluckily even live histogram is not really helpful to avoid blowing, but of course it´s better than nothing.

Where (modern) DR giants like Pentax K5 (II/s) shine is the shadow range. Because of their much smaller noise levels it is possibile to get out much "deeper" shadows than in elder noisier cams.

Do You have any hints or suggestions how to use E-1 metering best in these situations?

Thank You.

baBha

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my pictures: http://www.flickr.com/photos/batuk_bhagwan/

 babha's gear list:babha's gear list
Fujifilm FinePix S9100 Sigma DP2 Fujifilm X-S1 Olympus E-1 Olympus E-330
Nikon Coolpix S9 Olympus E-1 Olympus E-3 Pentax K-5
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