Sunny 16 rule ... not optimal at 16?

Started Jul 1, 2013 | Discussions thread
mike winslow
Contributing MemberPosts: 546Gear list
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Re: Sunny 16 rule ... not optimal at 16?
In reply to boardsy, Jul 2, 2013

boardsy wrote:

adymitruk wrote:

Was just trying out the sunny 16 rule with the kit lens on the NEX 7. It was mid-day and no clouds. So ISO 100 with 1/100 sec exposure and aperture of 16 was used. I'm concerned that I'm way too closed down f16. What would be the exposure if I was to use f8 or f11 instead.

I'm also concerned that I'm losing detail at f16 due to defraction. How do you adjust the sunny 16 rule so that you can keep the aperture you want? Each f stop up you 1/2 the exposure time?

Also, I guess the sunny 16 rule is a rough estimate and needs to be adjusted for the time of year and your latitude on earth among other things...

Any help is appreciated. I love having total control via manual mode and would love it if I could get he perfect exposure for a series of shots. Bracketing at +-1 EV is what I've done just in case at times..

F16 isn't optimal, just a starting point for that rule, to be adjusted for different apertures. You are needlessly complicating your photography life with this.

Aperture priority 'A mode' is the simplest, fastest, most reliable in most light - set & forget EV at or around 0, set your aperture for the 'look' you want (shallow depth of field, or not, etc), and the camera almost instantly calculates shutter speed to expose to EV=0 (use higher ISO in low light to keep shutter speed up if necessary) - almost point & shoot!

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yeah.. I favor A mode too.. It's quick to control, and if you set your custom buttons up to keep metering, focus areas, and DDR in easy reach, it's a quick matter to take a test shot, hit the replay button, and review the histogram, go back to live, and either shoot or tweak.  The article which I posted earlier implies some complicated testing, but the concept of highlight headroom is good, and getting familiar with reading a histogram - priceless. Especially histogram by channel.

Adding an external meter might be a good idea if you know how it calibrates multiple cameras on the same shot, but it's another device to learn and to trust.  Before you can trust it, you have to learn it's viewpoint, and unless it takes a picture or keeps a record, then it's hard to correlate with results. The exif info of today's cameras best keeping handwritten logs by a longshot. To that extent, it wouldnt be a major overhaul to the camera software to let us put a custom exif mark in if the camera doesnt 'see' the lens, as with my collection of M42's..

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