What I learned from Gollywop -- and what I wonder

Started Mar 26, 2013 | Discussions thread
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richarddd Senior Member • Posts: 2,982
Re: What I learned from Gollywop -- and what I wonder

This is Anders' post slightly edited:

Exposure 101 only covers what I would normally do and leaves out both the question of when I'd try to do something else and what else I'd try to do. So for the normal case, my advice would be the following:

1. Set the widest f-stop that satisfies your DoF requirements and the slowest shutter speed that satisfies your need to control subject motion and camera shake.

2. Set the lowest ISO within the ISO 200 to ISO 1600 range that brings the brightest highlights that you care to preserve just up to the clipping point. In so doing, skip intermediate ISOs between 200 and 400 (250 and 320) since going directly to ISO 400 when ISO 200 is insufficient is usually preferable. Note that rule 2 is E-M5-specific and might look different for other bodies.

3. If it turns out to be impossible to follow rule 2 because you are still clipping highlights even at ISO 200, use a smaller aperture or a faster shutter speed than you need according to rule 1. In so doing, be aware that peak aperture for MFT lenses is usually somewhere between f/4 and f/8 (about f/4 for fast primes, about f/8 for slow zooms at the long end where "wide open" means f/5.6 or smaller) and that it is not generally advisable to use a smaller aperture than the optimal unless you need it for sufficient DoF.

4. If it turns out to be impossible to follow rule 2 because you are not yet at the highlight clipping point when you reach ISO 1600, shoot anyway (at least if the highlight clipping point would be reached if you continued to ISO 3200, possibly ISO 6400, depending on your quality requirements).

5. In order to determine when you have reached the clipping point, check the orange blinkies, subject to:

Exception 1. Hidden blinkies, type A: If the scene you try to capture passes below a certain threshold in terms of contrast, the blinkies will never appear no matter how much exposure you dial in. These scenes are as a rule not photographically interesting and if, nevertheless, you want to capture them, they can easily be handled by my alternative strategy, i.e., that of metering on the brightest area and dial in +3.3 EV exposure compensation based on that reading.

Exception 2. Hidden blinkies, type B: If, in a scene that passes the contrast threshold mentioned above, you point the spot meter at the brightest highlights, the blinkies will again not appear when they should. In this case too, the situation is unproblematic once you are aware of how the camera behaves. Just avoid pointing the spot meter directly at the brightest highlights when observing the reaction of the blinkies, or, alternatively, point the meter at the brightest highlights (if they are large enough to be isolated by the spot) and dial in +3.3 EV exposure compensation based on that reading.

Exception 3: Phantom blinkies: If, in a scene that passes the contrast threshold mentioned above, you instead point the spot meter at the very darkest parts of the frame (black or near black), you are likely to see blinkies on the highlights that will never disappear no matter how much you try to restrict the exposure level. In this case too, there are easy work-arounds available of essentially the same kind as for exception 2.

Note 1: There are of course shortcuts that simplify the above under certain conditions. Suppose, for example, that you know in advance that ISO 200 will be sufficient because you are shooting in broad daylight and don't have particularly high shutter-speed requirements and/or use a fast lens. Then you would of course have the camera set to ISO 200 all the time and just adjust the f-stop and/or shutter speed so as to be in line with rule 3 (without violating rule 1).

Note 2: If you actually want to use a wide aperture because you want to maximize background blur for subject isolation or if you actually want a low shutter speed to simulate subject motion (e.g., that of moving water), you can alternatively comply with rule 3 by using an ND filter.

Looks good to me, although I don't have much experience with the Exceptions.

Regarding Exception 2, blinkies change depending on where you point the camera, not whether you are using spot metering or another metering mode, at least in the brief testing I've done. Are you suggesting something else?

 richarddd's gear list:richarddd's gear list
Olympus OM-D E-M5 Panasonic Lumix G Vario 7-14mm F4 ASPH Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 40-150mm 1:4-5.6 R Olympus M.Zuiko Digital 45mm F1.8 Samyang 7.5mm F3.5 UMC Fisheye MFT +3 more
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