Farewell, Olympus :(

Started Mar 2, 2013 | Discussions thread
dave gaines
Veteran MemberPosts: 9,172Gear list
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Great story about hummers, 4 pics and another method
In reply to Digirame, Mar 4, 2013

Digirame wrote:

Dave, the OP was also considering a crop camera, such as the Canon 7D when he said, "as for me, I've been checking out the D800 and 5D Mark III, as well as the 7D on the Canon side".

The Canon 100-400mm grade L lens is F4.5 to F5.6, and the cost is as low as $1499

Similar to the Olympus 50-200 mm f/2.8-3.5 ($1300?) but the Olympus is faster because for the shorter focal length, it can have a bigger aperture without getting too huge and expensive.

As an architect, I suspect that you are very logical and precise and what you have determined is accurate. But sometimes we have to step away from ...

Hi Digirame,

Thanks for the reply and your great personal experience. I do remember your posts from OTF. Your story of shooting the hummers is great. I can't imagine how you get that close. Red hat?

I work with architects, but I am a structural engineer. We're much more pragmatic, rational and logical. I struggle to break out of that pattern and just shoot good images based on how it makes me feel. Besides, no offense to any creative architects here, they often can't add fractions, inches and feet to save themselves.

As I said to Jim, I compared the cameras I listed because the OP said he was interested in the D800, the 5DmkIII or maybe the 7D w/APS-C for $1500US. He also likes the Canon 6D FF for $2500US. It just sounds like he's favoring FF over the 7D because he may either buy the D800 or buy the 7D and wait for something as good as a D800 from Canon.

The difference between today's APS-C and 4/3 will be small when Olympus releases a new DSLR with a sensor equal to or better than the EM-5.

Cameras come and go. Advances leapfrog one another with every new release. The only significant upgrade to 4/3 that would prompt me to switch is full frame (if money were no object).

Another way to shoot those hummers and get the results you want is to use a flash. At the 4 foot distance you mentioned you could dial back the ISO to ISO 100 or ISO 200 and the flash to 1/2 or less power. Setting the aperture for distance and shutter speed at 1/250 sec will give you good exposure on the hummer while making the background go dark, which solves the cluttered background you talked about. As you know aperture controls flash exposure based on subject distance while shutter speed controls background exposure. At low ISO, stopped down for DOF and fast shutter speeds, the background will be under-exposed and go dark, setting off that brilliant hummer.

You may recall from OTF that I shot a whole series of a hummingbird nest and two hatchlings. I used the E-3, 50-200 mm lens and EC-14 teleconverter with an FL-50 from about 6 to 8 feet away. I may used FP TTL flash settings for faster than 1/250 sec shutter speeds for some of them.

I learned from a slide presentation with Olympus Visionary Photographer, John Isaac that it's often more effective to shoot hummers at slower shutter speeds (1/125 sec) and let the wing beats blur a little to show the rapid motion without letting the hovering bird move in the frame. It actually looks pretty good and is an alternate to shooting for stop-motion of the wings at 1/250 sec.

EXIF attached. Now I don't know why I shot these at ISO 400? Maybe due to the distance and to get better DOF.

1/250 sec, f/4.9, ISO 400

New hatchlings in the nest

Hummer in mostly available light, early morning sun

Window and screen open and removed sat waiting for Hummer to return with cable release ready

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Dave

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Olympus C-8080 Wide Zoom Olympus E-330 Nikon D800E Nikon AF-S Nikkor 70-200mm f/2.8G ED VR Nikon AF-S Nikkor 14-24mm f/2.8G ED +7 more
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