A list of good/bad MFT lens for new owner?

Started Oct 1, 2012 | Discussions thread
josbiker
Regular MemberPosts: 372Gear list
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Re: 45-150 or 45-200
In reply to shihhan, Mar 1, 2013

shihhan wrote:

josbiker wrote:

You are right here, but I have made some tests and I cannot see a difference between a 16 Mpx print on A3 and a 8 Mpx print (and that is my main point). Can you confirm that? I understand that if I go further with cropping I reach the boundery sooner.

It depends... but you're right that there will be barely any difference at A3 (people used to print A3 at 3Mpx in the old days!)

The 45-175 in ETC mode gives me at tele end 350 mm x2= 700 mm

The 100-300 in ETC mode 300x2= 600 mm

I think you might have got your numbers wrong here...

45-175 gives 175 x2 (crop factor) x2 (ETC) = 700mm (equiv.)
100-300 gives 300 x2 (crop factor) x2 (ETC) = 1200mm (equiv.)

So i only use the ETC mode starting with 175 with the 45-175 .

The 100-300 becomes soft above the 225 mm and the 45-175 is much sharper at 175 than the 100=300! So I think I gain sharpness with the 45-175. Am I right here?

Yes. With ETC since you're only using the centre pixels, the sharpness at the centre matter more than the edge.

45-175 is excellent at 175mm (but... limited to f5.6)
100-300 is good/excellent at 200mm (but the data is for f4.7?)

Stopping down the 100-300 to f5.6 gives nearly the same (a tiny bit less) IQ at the centre than the 45-175... and at f8 there is no difference.

I have the budget for the 12-35/f 2.8 lens ( if I sell the 100-300 lens and the 20/f1,7 lens!)

I understand what you mean by blackground blurring. But I think that OIS will help for action shots and low light, I guess more or less 3 or more stops. So the nett profit will be 1-2 stops. Am I right here?

Not exactly right...

For low light shots, OIS will help, but you just can't *steal* apertures using OIS... as the percentage of acceptable shots drop with the number of stops you steal.

Say, 90% at +1 EV, 70% at +2 EV, 50% at +3 EV etc... and there is no uniform formula, as it depends how much inherent hand shake you have + lens weight + other factors

ISO performance and aperture will help more for action shots, as you might want to turn off OIS for faster focusing / lower shutter delay +/- panning (which is interfered by the OIS).

So 12-35 X f2.8 v 20 f1.7, you net *lose* one stop, but you gain versatility and AF speed.

Another lens you can consider, is the upcoming panasonic 150 prime, but for all intents and purposes consider it to be nothing but £1000+...

So 100-300 is the *only* native 200mm+ lens at the moment (yes, it's not stellar... but it is still the *only* lens that will give you native 600mm reach).

Again many ,many thanks you are more than helpfull!!

"I think you might have got your numbers wrong here...

45-175 gives 175 x2 (crop factor) x2 (ETC) = 700mm (equiv.)
100-300 gives 300 x2 (crop factor) x2 (ETC) = 1200mm (equiv.)"

When I swapp the 100-300 lens for the 45-175 lens than I miss the range above the 175 mm, right?

The 45-175 lens is sharper at 175 as the 100-300 lens at 175, right?

If I use the ETC on the 45-175 I only need the 100 mm (400 mm),125 (500 mm), and the 150 mm (600mm),right? So the limations is not f5,6 but a lower f number?, so I have compensated the "lost", right?

You told me that there is almost no difference at a A3 print,so I think I can "safely" use the ETC function, right?

The center pixels which I use at 100 mm, 125 mm, and 150 mm on the 45-175 lens are much sharper than "soft" pixels at 175 mm till 300 mm at the 100-300 lens, right?

I only need a  little switch on the GH3 to get more quality with the 45-175 lens, right?

The 45-175 lens is less heavier than the 100-300 lens and much smaller, right?

I can use the total range from (90 mm - 1400 mm) with the 45-175 lens, right?

With the 100-300 lens I can only use a range from 200 mm-1200 mm, right?

Above 300 mm (KBE 1200 mm) is for me more than enough.

The 12-35/f2.8 lens fills the need and more below the 45 mm!

"ISO performance and aperture will help more for action shots, as you might want to turn off OIS for faster focusing / lower shutter delay +/- panning (which is interfered by the OIS)."

I do not understand this , please explain what you mean by turn off and than gain faster  focusing/ lower shutter delay and +/- panning?

My thoughts for this moment:

So I have only 2 lenses with more quality and less weight and less size, than with the other 3 lenses ,the 20 mm/f1.7,+ 14-140/f4-5,8, + 100-300/f4-5.6 and less swapping, right? And smoother zooming for video,right?

What do you think?

Jos

 josbiker's gear list:josbiker's gear list
Panasonic Lumix DMC-GH4 Panasonic Lumix G 20mm F1.7 ASPH Panasonic 12-35mm F2.8 Panasonic Lumix G X Vario 35-100mm F2.8 OIS +2 more
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