I so want that high MP body...

Started Jan 17, 2013 | Discussions thread
plevyadophy
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Re: http://www.canonrumors.com/
In reply to Dave Seeley, Feb 11, 2013

Dave Seeley wrote:

plevyadophy wrote:

Maybe I am being dim, but can not Genuine Fractals/Perfect Resize give you the pixels you want?

No... There is now way to actually create more pixels in the way that a higher megapixel camera does, which results in more detail than a lower megapixel camera. Perfect Resize interpolates up in resolution, "guessing" what the surrounding pixels might have been, and applying sharpening. It claims to do this more effectively than just interpolating up and sharpening in Photoshop, and I think it does, but only barely noticeably to my eyeballs at he pixel level.

Can you not hire a MF cam for the day if you know in advance that the client is gonna want to have you crop really deep into a picture and then require the cropped portion to be used on a stand-up cutout display in-store?

I suppose I could use a high megapixel studio camera that is rented, but I do not know that system, so would need to spend the time and dollars to learn it beforehand in order to depend on it in a clutch situation.

Or another option, again if you know in advance what the client is gonna ask for, is to buy yourself a slide rail that enables you to slide your camera from left to right and vice versa on your tripod head. You then take each shot in duplicate or triplicate, moving the camera side to side for each composition; in your post production suite you then stitch the shots together to make an almightily high pixel count image. So for example, on a wide shot where you might use a 24mm lens, you instead use a "tighter" lens, e.g. a 50mm, to cram all those juicy Canon Mark III pixels into a smaller area and then to get the wider field of view you move the camera to the left and to the right to get the wider view, stitching all three shots for a final large pixel count image. Of course the problem with this technique would be that you would have a wide field of view horizontally but not vertically.

If I had a notion about what specific poses the client was going for, I could do that.... but in this case, they chose from about 200 selects that I posted in an online gallery for them, and sure enough, the one they chose was substantially different than the cartoon they generated at the outset. If I shot twice, I could get them to choose a pose, then shoot that pose on the second go in 4 or 6 shots, and stitch the pic, and it would work like a charm, but it would add considerably to the time and model fee. The time was the constraint on this last one. In the detail shot that i posted, I was lucky enough to be able to use a headshot closeup, but you can see there are softer areas in the hair and neck that were from a single full body shot that were used for that pose.

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OK, now I understand. Thanks.

Well, sin of all sins (shush! don't tell anyone I said this ), how about hiring or borrowing a Nikon D800? Is that enough pixels for you? Or even hiring a Leica S which has a similar number of pixels.

If you shoot in manual mode there really isn't much to learn in terms of operating a MF camera. But if the issue for you is wanting to set the camera's features up for maximum userbility and wanting to feel comfortable post processing the files for optimum output then yeah there is a bit of learning. However, it ain't a problem because from personal experience I can tell you that the MF companies, Hasselblad particularly, offer a lot of free seminars to aid those wishing to use their system. They have seminars and workshops for use of their cams as well as their Phocus software. Here in the UK, and I believe it's the same in U.S. (sorry, I didn't ask before, where are you based?), Hasselblad run regular sessions almost fortnightly.

Leica have an educational program for their S System, but when I last looked it wasn't as good as Hasselblad's but you will learn what you need to through a combination of attending a Leica session and swotting up on info from various blogs, the best independent blog info seems to be here: http://www.reddotforum.com/

As for Phase One/Mamiya, I have only ever once been on a workshop for their system and it was only that one time that I saw any training sessions advertised for the system. They don't appear to me to be out there like Hasselblad, whose educational program extends to colleges up and down the country. It is my understanding from reading the Luminous Landscape blog that Phase One/Mamiya will attend your studio or home to go through the system with you but that's in North America; I am not too sure how things work here in the U.K.

Having handled all three systems, and having fairly small hands and wrists, I find the Hassy system the most irritating to use. The body balance is horrid.  It does however have the best autofocus system of any MF system, and I would go as far as saying it has the cleverest central point AF system (known as TrueFocus) of any camera, period.

I found the Phase One/Mamiya and Leica cams to be the most like using a 35mm camera with the Leica being the best feel by miles; other MF cams are not even in the same league as the Leica in terms of handling. I wasn't too keen on the Phase One/Mamiya dual battery (one in body, one in digital back) and dual power-on set up but the system does have some amazing backs now with touchscreen (I have not seen or handled the new touchscreen backs yet, just read reviews).

It should also be noted that in terms of using flash, the Leica S and the Phase One/Mamiya are the most like using 35mm format because they both have very fast flash sync speeds. Using the appropriate "central shutter" and leaf shutter lenses, the Leica system will sync at 1/1000 whilst the Phase One/Mamiya can sync as fast as 1/1600 (NOTE: that's FULL POWER flash sync speed, NOT the HSS cheating (and loss of power) mode).

I hope my comments are helpful to you in some way.

Thanks in advance.

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