for handheld video and long lens shooting, GH3 or EM5?

Started Jan 31, 2013 | Discussions thread
OniMirage
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Re: for handheld video, GH3 or EM5?
In reply to ryan2007, Feb 1, 2013

ryan2007 wrote:

miki150 wrote:

I'm very interested in the topic of stabilization, is there any comparison online between E-M5 and the Pana OIS? Or could anyone make one?

As I understand Olympus OMD having the stabilization in the body is supposed to work to a lesser degree like a video camera. So you record and as you hand hold you are supposed to get some active stabilization if I understand.

Your thinking of the standard IBIS systems employed by the other Olympus models akin to the digital stabilization used by standard video camera. OMD is completely different.

The GH-3 with the stabilization in the lens does not give active obvious stabilizationwith the OMD maybe a little better but nothing like a dedicated video camera.

Should be read as: The GH-3 with the stabilization in the lens does not give active stabilization like the OMD. There isn't a dedicated video camera that operates like the OMD for stabilization. In the case of the GH3 the best your getting is digital stabilization.

You will need a stabilization system or use a fluid video head on a mono-pod or tripod. For hand held stuff it gets more involved to get good and steady shots.

Agree, for the GH3 this would be a must.

In tandem with this remember the 180 degree shutter rule that says the shutter speed is double the frames per second. So 30 FPS shutter is 1/60, 60 FPS shutter is 1/120

For fluid motion this is a must. Faster frame rates are fine but it would be highly recommended to stay with 2x the previous shutter count, 60-124-250-500-1000-2000-4000-8000. Alternatively 360 degree shutter is also valid for dreamlike motion blur.

You can try a step higher but will happens is the image will stutter or stop and start and you see this during playback not while shooting.

This is not correct at all. In digital capture each frame will get the correct exposure at the proper timing regardless. What is reduced is the motion blur associated with each frame.

You also need to know or should plan the best you can and try not to zoom while shooting unless you have to.

Zoom while filming is a difficult but valid technique. It has been used for suspense and active closeups in countless movies. However, you must be aware of your scene as zooming can introduce elements in the background that can distract from the intended image. To add to this you NEED to make sure your aperture used remains constant. If you have a variable aperture you need to use an aperture that is valid on both the wide and tele end. For example if you have a variable of f2.8 to f5.6 you aperture should be locked to 5.6 or smaller such as f11.

If you want to think next level think how they shoot a hollywood movie. Unless you have multiple cameras shooting at the same time you have to stop and start. This does not matter if its DSLR or a dedicated video camera.

You don't need multiple cameras unless you have elements in the scene which cannot be repeated, such as destruction or environment variables that are out of your control.

Shooting video is a different mind set then shooting stills.

Yes it is which is why it's important to research as much as possible.

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