first shoot with omd... noise reduction advice...

Started Jan 23, 2013 | Questions thread
Veteran MemberPosts: 4,167
Re: first shoot with omd... noise reduction advice...
In reply to hexagondun, Jan 23, 2013

Some of these may be the same answers you got before, but here goes:

  1. Is in-camera noise reduction applied to raw files?

No, it's not. Raw is raw.

  1. Should I turn noise red. off completely in order to retain as much detail as possible? What would you recommend?

If you're interested in using the jpegs, yes. I found (shooting with the same equipment as you) that the best settings for detail at high ISO were Noise Filter Off (or at most Low), Sharpness -1.

  1. What should I set my max auto-ISO to?

Depends on the white balance and degree of dynamic contrast. If the lighting is incandescent or heavily red-tinted, probably around 3200, but if the light is just dim but "even" and natural-colored, I'd go as high as 8000 or even more. Blur is almost *always* worse than grain.

You might not want to use auto ISO, but instead turn the ISO up and down as you see fit. This depends on the range of lighting you'll be dealing with. Remember, auto ISO doesn't understand subject motion. I'd use manual ISO, changing it as needed to maintain a good shutter speed, and aperture priority at f/1.8.

  1. I've heard of people shooting the panny 20 and the pl25 hand heldat 1/10 to 1/20th sec-- that said, how effective will the IBIS be at 45mm? Any ideas as to the slowest shutter speed I should expect to be effective with this new ibis?

I don't really know this, since I was usually in situations where subject motion was a bigger problem than camera shake. I'd think that you could get some good results at 1/20 or 1/25, but I'd also think that subject motion would be a bigger worry than camera shake unless you were quite far away. I'd advise putting the camera in high speed burst mode (make sure you turn on the menu option that enables the IBIS in burst mode!) and fire off bursts; this will really improve the odds that you'll get at least one shot where both camera shake and subject motion aren't a problem, and people's facial expressions (even priests, I guess!) can change rapidly. But be careful with the buffer.

In general, you usually need a faster speed than you think you do, unless your subject is absolutely static.

Any other practical suggestions for low light shooting and/or fine-tuning the camera's settings for max detail in relatively low light would be greatly appreciated. I'm really trying to get the best results possible tonight. Thanks much!

I found the E-M5 + 45/1.8 a pretty easy setup to get good results from, honestly.

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