Urgent help required !!
Both these items are the non-automatic versions of macro extension tubes (like these from Amazon). This means they do not have the electrical contacts to pass the signals to an from the lens from the camera body. This has the effect of disabling the autofocus and also the diaphragm.
This means you will have to manually focus the lens. Not a big problem with macro photography as it is often easier to set a focus distance manually then move the camera forward and back to bring the subject into focus.
The real problem is that you are not able to adjust the aperture from it's default value. In the case of Canon lenses this is maximum aperture which means you are stuck at minimum depth of field which can be a pain. I seem to remember in the case of at least some Nikon lenses they default to fully stopped down i.e. minimum aperture (can a Nikon user confirm this?).
This is typical of almost all Nikon lenses. A spring internal to the lens applies forces to keep the aperture stopped down to the f value set on the aperture ring (or fully stopped down on lenses without the aperture ring). The camera body via a mechanical linkage contacting the aperture lever on the rear of the lens holds the aperture open for viewing.
The only work around for this is to use early manual lenses from film cameras which have aperture control rings on them.
Actually only the current auto focus "G" type Nikon lenses omit the aperture ring. All manual focus lenses and auto focus AF and AF-D type lenses have the aperture control ring on the lens. They can be used on this type of extension tube by manually controlling the aperture ring, open for viewing and focusing, then turning it to an f value for actual exposure. Slow, but doable for macro as long as your subject doesn't run away.
A much better bet is to buy a set of macro tubes with the pass through contacts (like these from Amazon). The drawback is that they cost about 8 to 10 times the cost of the non-automatic tubes.
Hope this helps. John