WOW, MAC!! I never expected so much information!!
A couple of questions:
Tips -T4i LV – Touch- User Thread - The touchscreen combined with LV is revolutionary imo – and is changing the way I photograph.
This thread is for everyone and also for Yogi’s son and his son’s wife who just bought a T4i as well as all of the folks who want to chime in on LV – combined with Touch Screen Tips – let’s keep this thread without use of flash. Maybe we’ll cover flash setups later since I fire up to three strobes with the T4i into umbrellas , but also use radio triggers from time to time .
BTW – I highly recommend the T4i be used with small primes – I love to one hand mine with the relatively light weight. For me, that is what the T4i is all about. Pro quality (as mentioned in The Digital Picture Site Review – and light weight package. It deserved DPReview’s gold award and just missed for weakness in a video feature.
I don’t use a neck strap for this camera – yuk. I purchased a hand strap but don’t like it –too awkward. I don’t believe in adding the weight of battery grips. I took a small string strap from one of my digi-cams and it acts as the unobtrusive string around my wrist that if I drop the camera, will bail me out – hopefully I use 60 f2.8 macro (I very highly recommend this lens – best crop prime canon made for crop cameras imo -- got mine used for $275) and I recommend the combo with the 35 f2 (got mine new for $289) which are really nice value lenses that can cover a whole bunch of low light portrait and indoor and macro photography. I also have the 15-85 with is the all arounder for scapes, and group shots. I have the 18-55 IS and 55-250 IS which are good light weight lenses also for travel. And my 10-17 Toki FE which is my 180 degree FOV lens. But I love the T4i with the small primes and keeping it light and where I can hold one handed – and use this powerful tool.
My background – I bought original D30 a decade ago, and progressed to 10d, then 30d, 2-rebel xt’s, 40d, 5dc, 60d, T4i. Of all of these cameras, the T4i is without a doubt the most fun to use and allows me to carry 3 cameras to events (60d, T4i, 5dc with some L’s). But when I am photographing family and for fun, it is the T4i every time that I take – and as I said it would be my first choice as a backup to a pro camera – it is a pro camera in its own right.
The other thing is – I don’t worry about EF lenses vs crop lenses – and say I’ll be all FF someday – I say --take advantage of crop lenses that were designed for the T4i – eg 60 macro and 15-85 IS
The T4i’s touchscreen combined with LV is revolutionary imo – and is changing the way I photograph.
Maybe in another thread I’ll cover flash photography, but this thread it is about my no flash Touch Screen LV set-up and method – please feel free to add your advice as well:
n I highly recommend shooting RAW and using Lightroom – it corrects the lenses and gets colors and WB and noise and sharpness as good as it gets in high volume processing. But if you are not there yet, suggest using DPP that comes with the camera. And even though I have PSCS 4, I just bought a copy of Elements and Premiere Elements 11 for the video features – slow motion, combo videos, music sync and BW video and perhaps some photo processing – tip if you buy – Amazon has great prices on the combo.
n I use Eye Fi SD card and the new Ipad BTW – so actually I shoot RAW+jpg to review the jpg transferred wirelessly onto my ipad.
n Hi ISO is so good on the T4i with Lightroom RAW processing for personal shooting I set the hi iso max to 6400 and for event shooting I set the max to either iso1600 or iso 3200 depending on the situation
n I love the auto iso feature of this camera in manual mode so that is tip for this thread --my setting is manual mode without flash and auto iso.
n I set long exposure noise redux to off
n I set High ISO speed NR to off
n I set Auto Lighting Optimizer to Off
n I set metering Mode to Evaluative to take advantage of the 63 zone dual layer metering which is really great compared to my old 40d that I sold and my 5dc which I have to use spot metering to get anything good.
n I Set Custom Functions 6,1 – AE lock/AF – this separates the metering from the focus. The metering is locked with half shutter and the focus is activated with the second back button. When you remove your thumb from this second back button the focus locks. This way you can photograph all day long in either AISERVO (if you anticpate motion) or ONE SHOT (if you anticipate rather static subjects)
n I use Auto White Balance and it is very good – even indoors -- compared to older dslr’s
n BTW – I set my set button to flash exposure compensation using custom function 7, 2 – but that is for another thread.
n In custom functions, I have highlight tone priority off, mirror lockup off, 1/3 stop exposure increments, iso expansion on, af assist beam firing enabled
n Ok, now with that preface – down to the LV and touchscreen setup
n Set LV to enable in the menu
n AF method – set to Flexizone Single
n Set Continous AF to disable
n Set touch shutter to disable
n Set grid to rule of thirds
n Aspect ratio to 3:2
n Metering timer to 30 sec.
Ok, now we are ready for my super duper indoor low light touch screen Live View photograph.
Remember – keep it in manual mode with auto iso set to max 6400. In this mode the camera will meter on the scene vs in an all manual mode without using auto iso where you dial in settings.
As far as your manual ss setting – kids dance (stop them at ss 1/200); people walk down the aisle (stop them at ss 1/125); people talk and chat (stop them between 1/40 -1/80 – and use IS if you have it). If you don’t have IS, use the 1/(Focal Length * 1.6 crop factor) inverse hand held rule for your ss. For my 60 mm f2.8 macro without IS – I use min of ss 1/100 to hand hold. I also like F2.8 for low light with this lens. For my 35 mm f2 lens I use min of ss 1/60 to handhold. Note – if motion in the scene, then the motion ss needed – described above – trumps the handholding speed needed.
Ok – the following is for rather stationary subjects that aren’t running around – if the kids are running use your viewfinder. If they are steady – here is the super duper method to focus precisely on their eyes/face at shallow dof for a dramatic look using LV and touch screen:
I hold my T4i with one of the two primes in my right hand and with my right thumb I turn on LV. Then with the thumb of my left hand, I touch the screen at the rule of thirds where I want to compose the focal point of the shot in the frame – a box will show up at this rule of thirds grid.
Next because I’m using the metering of auto iso in live view and the detailed settings described above, I can shift the camera side to side (on a dark area or light area to get the Live View Metering I want – it shows up in Live View in what is called Exposure Simulation. I personally like to ETTR – expose to the right to reduce noise because you can bring back plenty of headroom back in RAW in Lightroom, whereas exposing to dark, you’ll end up after processing with more noise. This concept is called – exposure to the RIGHT. Click the info button and you’ll see the dynamic histogram in LV. Shift the LV box over a dark area and you’ll essentially Expose to the Right the scene and you’ll see the histogram move further right. Remember – you’ll bring back the Raw file exposure with Light room or DPP and have less noise at high iso.
Now here is the trick – with the setup I’ve described – when you shift the focus box over a dark area – and get the ETTR exposure you want – hold down the half shutter button to LOCK the METERING – you’ll see an asterisk on the screen that the exposure is now locked.
Now – with the metering locked shift the camera back to compose your shot at the rule of thirds with the focus box on the rather stationary kids eye. Use F2.2 or F2.8 in low light.
So this is where you use the screen: to select the focal point, but not to focus?
Now, with the right thumb – press the second button to do a preliminary focus on the eye.
Which is the 'second button'? Would this be the "*" button?
Then, keeping the camera very steady in live view, press the first button 3 times with your right thumb to magnify on the eye,
Is the 'first button' the one right next to the "*" button at top right on rear of cam?
and immediately move to the second button and focus and remove thumb to focus lock.
So to AF, you are using the "*" button ("BBF"), not the screen, right? The screen just lets you select your focal point?
At this point, either shoot the picture, or zoom out with the first button to demagnify first, check the framing, wait for the expression, keep the camera steady, then shoot the picture.
5 seconds max for this. Practice. If you are in very low light, switch the lens to Manual focus and use the lens focus ring to focus, or if the lens has full time manual focus just use that without touch the second focus button as you manual focus.
This method lets you see the focus point better than a Full Frame Viewfinder can see. This is amazing feature of touchscreen and Liveview of the T4i. I can’t usethe arrow keys very well on my 60d to move around and this touch screen beats the joystick imo for static subjects.
YMMV – please offer your tips. Thanks for paying attention to this thesis on how LV and touchscreen is changing the way I shoot photos When I do group shots with my off camera flash andsuper duper 15-85 IS – you bet I’ll be using this handheld method and LV touch method described above – along with onsite eyefi and ipad confirmation.
Have fun. Hope you enjoyed!
Great info, MAC! Thank you very much for sharing your wealth of experience!
When you get down to the nuts and bolts of photography, the results depend on the 'nut' behind the camera!
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