Olympus E-PM1 good place to start?

Started Dec 30, 2012 | Discussions thread
dave rogers
Regular MemberPosts: 185Gear list
Like?
Re: Olympus E-PM1 good place to start?
In reply to Tyrophotographer, Jan 2, 2013

Tyrophotographer wrote:

dave rogers wrote:

It'll get you a m4/3 mount, but it may not be the best place to "start." I have one and I like it very much. It was my introduction to m4/3, but I came from the E-520/E-30, so I knew what to expect with regard to Oly menus.

The E-PM1 can do nearly everything a DSLR can do, it just takes more fiddling and menu diving to do it. The initial experience might be a bit of a turnoff. If you do decide to get it, there are some good posts here in the forum on how to configure it to minimize your frustration. At a minimum, be sure to turn on the Super Control Panel (SCP), which takes a bit of menu-diving to do. Then you'll want to look for the shutter shock issue (not an enormous problem, but it does exist) and the anti-shock settings, if you're looking at that level of detail.

It's a nice little body and it's given me some great pictures. But I'm happy to work with it on its terms. Your mileage may vary.

Dave, could you explain the 'shutter shock' issue? Is it related to the supposed inability if IBIS to work at shutter speeds around 1/100

It's explained elsewhere here in the forum, better than I can, but it relates to the extra movement involved in going from the sensor being exposed for the live view, then closing the shutter to begin the exposure for the image, and then the shutter movement for the image itself, then back to open. The mechanical energy involved in all that opening and closing seems to impart some vibration to the sensor that isn't necessarily entirely cancelled by the image stabilization system - or interacts with it at particular shutter speeds in such a way as to impart a seemingly double image, offset by a few pixels, that somewhat blurs the image.

I was skeptical, so I went through my archives of images that were taken at the shutter speeds and focal lengths that were reported as being problematic. I was surprised when I did find some; but I will say that it's not the kind of thing I would have noticed at the time. I'm typically not much of a pixel-peeper.

There's an "anti-shock" setting that's kind of like the delay to allow vibration from the mirror flipping up in a DSLR. It delays opening the shutter to acquire the image by the selected amount of time to allow any vibration induced by closing the shutter in prepartion for the exposure to dampen to decay. I believe a quarter second was reported as being sufficient for negating the worst of the effect, and I'm not much of a "decisive moment" kind of photographer, so I didn't think a quarter second delay in capturing the shot would bother me at all, and it hasn't.

Again, had I not read about it, it's unlikely I'd every discover it on my own. But having learned about it, I figured it was a relatively painless fix to try and increase at least the technical performance of the camera. Certainly can't hurt. Though it does nothing to correct my errors in composition, exposure, etc.

Again, fairly comprehensive write-ups elsehwhere here in the forum. Sorry for the tardy reply.

 dave rogers's gear list:dave rogers's gear list
Olympus XZ-1 Olympus Stylus XZ-10 Olympus E-410 Olympus E-520 Olympus E-30 +22 more
Reply   Reply with quote   Complain
Keyboard shortcuts:
FForum PPrevious NNext WNext unread UUpvote SSubscribe RReply QQuote BBookmark post MMy threads
Color scheme? Blue / Yellow