These Kodachrome shots look like Foveon images.

Back in the 1950's Kodachrome was 10 ASA (ASA was used before ISO but they have same numerical progression and in effect are the same) and then that was upped to 12 ASA and then to 25 ASA - eventually (much later) reaching the dizzy heights of 50 ASA, with still the 25 ASA being the main preferred available version, even for 35mm users.  Cor Lummey!

That's why I always smile when so-called "modern photographers" seem unable to cope with 100 ISO and need to have such as 400, 800, 1600 and even 3200 and higher before they can take pictures - and at those higher speed are not (imho) really "decent" at all, in the sense of really high quality.

During my PRO days, I predominantly used film of 100/125 speed - and only used 400 when down a working coal mine, with lighting only from the miners head lamps.  Not only were all the Kodachrome shots in those shown with the very slow Kodachrome but were also all on a 5x4 camera - not a 35mm with lenses like f2 or even f1.2.  Difference is - they were captured by accomplished photographers.

Although I am (and have always been) interested in end B+W prints for myself, I did a lot professionally with colour (even making and selling alternative kits for E4, Agfa 50S and Cibachrome) and would state that it was the SD9 and Foveon quality that encouraged me to switch to digital and as far as I am concerned, the colour from Foveon is as good as Kodachrome (in quality terms) and as a final comment, dust on sensors does occur (although fairly easily removed and/or cloned out).  I well remember the problems of dust on 35mm Kodachrome and other transparencies when projected or used for making reversal prints via the Cibachrome method - believe me, retouching a dust mark on a CIbchrome colour print was a mammoth task - I metion that for those who complain about having to clone out a couple of spots on the digital file - especially as once done, all prints need no further attention, unlike via the conventional printing methods where every print required the same amount of attention - and time! 

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Zone8: Although I am a handsome genius, when I stand in front of a mirror, I vaguely recognise the ugly idjit standing on the other side!
LINK: For B+W with Epson 1400 (and other models) using black ink only PLUS other useful tips:
http://www.photosnowdonia.co.uk/ZPS/epson1400-B&W.htm
Cleaning DSLR Sensors, including Kodak DSLR Factory Cleaning method:
http://www.photosnowdonia.co.uk/ZPS/KodakDCS-sensorcleaning.htm
Solving back/front focus problems on Sigma and most other DSLRs
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1027&message=35565277
PDF format list of lenses you can print or download - covers Italian Flag YES/NO for DCS 14n but applies to others. http://www.photosnowdonia.co.uk/ZPS/ItiFlagLensList.pdf