Silkypix Developer Studio Pro for Panasonic - Special !!!

Started Dec 14, 2012 | Discussions thread
harry cannoli
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Mike.. SilkyPix overview and processing steps..
In reply to Mikedigi, Dec 17, 2012

Mikedigi wrote:

Ronomy wrote:

What I really like about it so far is images taken in lower light like during dusk you can take ISO 400 images and retain all the detail because you adjust exactly the amount of NR you want. . . . . . . . . . .

Thanks again . . . . . For those of us who have difficulties with the settings on the dishwasher, the washing machine and the vacuum cleaner:

No urgency here, but when you have had plenty of time to work out some idiot-friendly, 5-second Silkypix 5 tricks for 400, 800 and 1600 ISO on the FZ200, could you please give us a button-by-button kindergarten class?

Mike, I can understand your frustration. There are no 5 second fixes, but there is a time proven sequence of steps to take. I'll try to explain, after this introduction to SilkyPix. Understand this, I'm on my laptop. I've used SilkyPix exactly twice, and I'm working from memory.

OVERVIEW:

On the left hand side of the SilkyPix screen, you'll see a box with adjustments. There is a text description of what the control does. When you click on the text, you'll get a drop down menu. Example: click on White Balance and you'll see a drop down list of white balance options. No need to click on an option at this time. Simply mouse over the menu and you'll see the changes that menu option does to your image, in real time. When you like a white balance option, click on the option and the change will take effect, and you can move on to something else. You can always come back and change things later, if you desire.

To the left of the text is an icon. Click on the icon and you won't see a list of options, you'll see sliders, use those sliders to make the changes yourself.

That's about all there really is, as far as editing goes. I'll touch on other things later on.

Here's what I do, and how I do it-

  1. Exposure compensation. On the left hand side of the screen, (I believe the top option) click on the exposure icon (Don't click the text, click the icon). A slider will appear at the bottom of the menu options. Slide the exposure slider until you find a pleasing balance of highlights, midtones and shadows. If you like, there's a histogram to help. Find the histogram button, click it, and the histogram pops up. You can use the exposure compensation slider, with the histogram, to assure you get the most range possible without blown highlights or dark shadows.
  2. Set Black Point. Nothing affects the feel of an image the way setting the black point does. I normally do this step in photoshop, but it can be easily done in SilkyPix. On the left side of the screen, mouse over the icons and locate "Contrast". Don't use a preset, click on the icon, and you'll see a few sliders down below. The lowest slider is "Black Level". Slide it slightly to the right and watch what happens. A very powerful tool, don't overdo it.
  3. Contrast. Above the "Black Level" slider are other sliders. The top slider is your global contrast control. Move it slightly in each direction to see what the control does. Move it slightly, a little at a time, until you like the contrast
  4. White Balance. Click on the White Balance text, not on the icon. A drop down list of white balance options will appear. Simply mouse over a menu selection and you'll see the result of your selection applied to the image. Mouse over a few options. Click on the option that works best. If the white balance is close, but not correct, click on the white balance icon and those sliders will appear. Grab one and move it slightly to the left. If you're going the wrong way, move it slightly to the right. Stop when you get it right. You're done with white balance.
  5. Highlight Recovery. (Use this tool if thee whites in your photo are pure white , with no detail).The Highlight Recovery Tool is not located with the tools you've been working with so far. It's under the "View" menu on the top of the screen. Clikc the "View" button. A drop down list will appear. Find the Highlight Recovery (or something like that) option and click it. The bottom slider is Dynamic Range Expansion. Move that 1/4 to the right. Move the slider above it slightly to the left. You'll start seeing detail in the whites (Providing the detail is there. If you really overexposed, this tool won't work. This tool only works when highlight detail can be recovered.)
  6. Saturation. Click on the Saturation icon (located in the tool pallet on the left) If you want more saturation, slide to the right. Less saturation? Slide to the left.
  7. Noise reduction. Towards the bottom of the tool pallet, there's an icon that has two options. A brush to the right, and sharpening to the left. Click on the brush, this will open the noise reduction controls. You'll see three sliders (maybe two?) in a box by themselves, with a slider (by itself) up top. Noise reduction and sharpening should always be done while viewing the image at 100%. Mouse over your image and right click. Select the option to view at 100%. Find a noisy area, an area with some detail. Once you have selected an area of your image with noise, grab the upper slider and nudge it to the right. Then, grab the slider underneath it and nudge it to the right. Wait a moment and the results of your adjustments will be applied to your image. Move the slider directly under the slider you just moved (The upper slider in the box) nudge that slider to the right and wait until you see the result of yor adjustment. Keep doing this until the noise is in check. Be careful, to SilkyPix, noise and fine detail are the same. There is always a compromise with noise reduction; too much and you lose fine detail. You have to find a pleasing balance of detail retention and noise elimination.
  8. Sharpening. If you're going to continue working on your image in photoshop, or whatever editop you use, stop here and export the image as a tiff. Always save sharpening as the final step. If you're done with your image, and you don't plan on working with it after you're finished in SilkyPix, you'll need to sharpen. To the left of that little broom, there's the sharpening icon. Click it. View an area of the image you're working on that has fine detail in it. Grab the upper slider and move it slightly to the right. Wait a moment, you'll see the result of the adjustment you made. Be gentle with the slider. Don't overdo it. Stop BEFORE you really want to stop.
If the image requires big adjustments, you shot the image badly. You blew it. Shoot it again. If the image is really important to you, you still shouldn't overdo it. You'll never be able to fix it anyway, and you'll probably make things worse.Remember, make only small changes.That's about it.
I'm sorry I don't have SilkyPix on this computer. I've only used it twice and I'm working from memory. Perhaps someone else will chime in to correct me, maybe they'll have a few tips of their own they're willing to share.
(Sorry about the typos. It's 4:42 AM, I should have been asleep hours ago).
Rgds

Rich
ice nine photography
Take only photographs, leave only footprints.

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