Fuji XF1 Additional Sample Photos - Outdoors incl Effects

Started Oct 29, 2012 | Discussions thread
Mark Prince
Regular MemberPosts: 107Gear list
Like?
Re: Summary of How/When EXR Hardware Control Approximately Works
In reply to Trevor G, Oct 29, 2012

This is fantastic, detailed information. I assume this applies to EXR cameras and DR, like the XF1, but not to the X100.

I am struggling though to see how this would relate to my real world shooting in a way I can really benefit from it. I think it would, I just am struggling with it a bit in my head. Here's what I'm understanding:

- if I shoot with capture size of M, and below ISO400, but enabling DR (ie, not Auto, but setting DR to 200 or 400), then I will get expanded dynamic range that is all hardware based (and thus, more "pure"?) in my jpg captures that, once pulled into Lightroom, I can either expand out further, or straight from the camera the images will just have increased detail in shadows and highlights?

- If I shoot at ISO400 or above, but still at M file size, I get a combo of both hardware and software DR happening that should still result in better DR results than say either shooting at L file sizes, or comparable shooting on my X100?

- Ideally, for the best possible images with great shadow and highlight detail, I should always shoot at IS320 or lower, DR at 400, image size M.

Is all the above correct? Now... my other question is on this: How does the setting of highlight tone, shadow tone and noise reduction play with these expanded DR tricks that use the EXR sensor? For instance if I set highlight tone to HARD, as I understand it, it will push to white out where it can in bright areas, giving more contrast but also losing detail. Ditto in reverse for Shadow Tone - if set to hard, it really pushes for blacks where it can. Will hardware-only DR retain detail in these pushed areas?

And how do the opposite settings work - setting Shadow Tone or Highlight Tone to soft or medium soft?

I ask because I did find that happy medium on my X100 for black and white photography - I like inky blacks (if they exist in my scene) and snow whites (again, if they exist) so I push both Highlight and Shadow to Hard or Medium Hard. I found that, software wise, I retained more detail in these dark or light areas with DR400, but still got bits of pure blacks and pure whites. (I also boost up sharpness a bit, Medium High). And I tend to run the yellow filter black and white mode to again fool a bit with sky colours and such.

Regards

Mark

Trevor G wrote:

Mark, there is plenty of information in here about how the EXR hardware and software modes work. Here is a synopsis:

1) EXR hardware exposes dual/paired photosites for different times to provide, courtesy of some software manipulation, images with extended, unclipped headroom - that is, unclipped image information above 0EV

1a) The hardware-only EXR is available in M size, when you have DR higher than 100% and ISO less than 400. You can easily get 2 to 3 EV of highlight headroom in this mode. The 2 images, or rather certain components from the 2 images, are combined to produce 1 JPEG OOC, or a (composite) RAW file OOC which can be split or shown as 2 separate files with certain sotware.

RFC/Silkypix seems to produce a composite RAW file based on the image data from both exposures.

1b) Once ISO reaches 400, or if you are using L size images software sensor amplification kicks in to provide additional or possibly alternate highlight extension capabilities.

2) EXR modes use both types of highlight recovery/headroom extension techniques, as well as various scene recognition techniques..

3) OOC JPEGs will show about 1 to 1.5EV maximum headroom/highlight recovery at DR400. They will always show clipping of highlight information if it was a high contrast scene - that is, elements were above 0EV at time of exposure.

4) The corresponding RAW image can show more than 3EV of highlight recovery, available simply by reducing the exposure level in the processing software, such as RFC/Silkypix.

5) Using DR400 in high contrast scenes will result in an image which sometimes looks less contrasty than one shot at DR100, because the available image information is squeezed into a smaller area than when you have a clipped image using DR100. Unless, like me, you readily notice clipped highlights and the concomittent loss of detail.

At least with a less contrasty image you can always add contrast, whereas with a clipped image you can never add detail back in.

6) Using DR higher than 100% on a low contrast scene (no picture elements above 0EV) results in an overall reduction in exposure level, of around 1EV. This makes the end resulting image less contrasty than if you (correctly) used DR100.

7) Remarkably, once you have a scene with any picture elements above 0EV you will normally, automatically get the full 2EV or so of highlight headroom.

I hope this fills in some of the blanks.

I have posted numerous examples of highlight recovery, RAW vs JPEG, from the X10 and other cameras.

-- hide signature --

Cheers
Trevor G
Silkypix tutorials at: http://photo.computerwyse.com

-- hide signature --

Mark Prince, CoffeeGeek.com
Photos: flickr.com/coffeegeek
Twitter: twitter.com/coffeegeek

 Mark Prince's gear list:Mark Prince's gear list
Fujifilm FinePix X100 Fujifilm XF1 Fujifilm X100S Canon EOS 5D Mark II Olympus PEN E-PL1 +18 more
Reply   Reply with quote   Complain
Keyboard shortcuts:
FForum PPrevious NNext WNext unread UUpvote SSubscribe RReply QQuote BBookmark post MMy threads
Color scheme? Blue / Yellow