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Re: X-Pro 1 RAF (RAW) file to play
In reply to Chris Dodkin,
7 months ago
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Chris Dodkin wrote:
Lovely fall colors, wish we had some here in SoCal!
A few initial comments based on EXIF/Image data:
1) The image is underexposed, and lacking contrast - probably due to a bright flat sky - using a grad ND filter would have assisted in getting a better image in-camera - a 0.6 or even 0.9 grad ND would have made a world of difference (2 or 3 stop Grad ND).
2) The aperture used is not optimal for image DOF - moving to f/8 would give you a near limit of 13.7 ft, and a far limit of infinity at the approximate focal distance of the trees in this shot.
3) The aperture used is not optimal for the lens. When you review a test chart for the 35mm lens, you'll see that the best weighted sharpness across the lens from center to edge, is f/8.

4) Your ISO is not optimal (ISO 800) - Although the X-Pro1 has except higher ISO noise performance, you will get better IQ with the ISO fixed at the lowest value (ISO 200) - this will mean that you will have to be using a tripod in order to optimize image sharpness. You should also use the self timer to take the shot, avoiding camera shake due to physical interaction with the camera.
These are important issues to consider when IQ is being critically discussed.
Given the file provided, adjustments for sharpness, exposure, contrast, etc can produce a better final IQ - but you can't fix the inherent issues outlined above.
This version was converted using ACR into Photoshop CS6

Good thread BTW.
--
http://www.dodkin.com
Chris@1D-Images.com
Mac Pro/MacBook Pro/iPods/iPhones/iPad
I think the quality difference between 5.6 and 8 is so difficult to notice that even the father of the lens would have difficulties. And this image does not seem to need more dof. As far as a gradual filter is concerned, I find that the artificial look it gives to the image is difficult to swallow. And I think a light gradual effect in post processing is much easier to master. And I think none should be given lessons on how to shoot. ISO 800 is almost impossible to tell from ISO 200, and that is why many of us bought the Fuji in the first place: just to be free to shoot in a broader envelope of situations. The point of this thread was another.
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