In-camera HDR landscapes from WDW (imgs)

Started Sep 27, 2012 | Discussions thread
zackiedawg
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Re: Thank you Victor [nt]
In reply to KingSpence, Sep 30, 2012

KingSpence wrote:

I've been doing a bit of HDR myself, but find once the sun begins setting I see a lot of ghosting/double edges on objects. What are some good ways to work around that? Is a tripod necessary for slower shutter speeds?

That would be my guess - when you are shooting HDR at night, you are likely going to have some pretty slow shutter speeds, and need to either crank the ISO up very high (not preferable unless you have to) or use a tripod so you can keep the ISO low and use longer exposures. The high ISO method works, but you tend to get more noise in the photos at night, so the tripod method is usually preferred for night work.

Also, can someone explain to me what metering is and which setting is the best for landscape HDR?

Metering is the general term for determining the light of the scene and setting the camera's exposure...ie: with the amount of light in the scene, you will want an aperture of F8 and a shutter speed of 1/400 at ISO 100. How the camera determines this can be controlled by what modes you shoot in - in Auto, the camera does all the work, in P mode, you can begin to override the camera by telling it to only judge the light in a smaller portion of the scene (center-weighted or spot metering), or by telling the camera to under- or over-expose more (EV control). In Priority modes, you can tell the camera to use a particular aperture setting or shutter speed that you want, and the camera will adjust the other settings to try to achieve a good exposure.

When I say 'meter for the highlights', I mean you want to tell the camera to expose the scene based on pointing your metering area at the brighter objects in the scene - such as the sky. On the LCD or EVF, this will make the sky look properly exposed and defined, but the foreground will end up looking like a silhouette or black outline. The HDR mode will then make up for that too-dark area in the 2nd and 3rd frames it shoots, so that the blend of the 3 shots ends up looking like everything is properly exposed.

Hope that helps!

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