Nikon Auto ISO

Started Sep 19, 2012 | Discussions thread
nfpotter
Senior MemberPosts: 4,072
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Re: Nikon Auto ISO
In reply to Sammy Yousef, Sep 24, 2012

Sammy Yousef wrote:

nfpotter wrote:

I shoot 90%+ M mode with Auto-ISO on. That way, I'm controlling the shutter speed that I want (for both camera and subject motion), and the aperture I want (for both DOF and sharpness control), but the camera is still helping me nail exposure quickly. Works awesomely, especially in quickly changing light.

Two things to be careful with here:
1) Over-exposure in bright sunlight. Auto ISO won't turn your exposure down.

2) Interaction with flash. The in-built flash on a lot of Nikon models automatically sets your shutter speed to flash sync speed if it is above, which can mean you blow the exposure if you attempt to use inbuilt flash for fill. Also your D7000 will boost ISO before increasing TTL flash power. Older models (D300 but not D300S, D90 and older) use to boost flash power in preference to raising ISO, which I prefer.

Um, ALMOST...

1 - yes, I've already address bright light.

2 - First, I've never had any of my Nikons automatically set my SS to flash sync speed with the built-in flash, because it doesn't allow you to set it faster than your setting for sync speed (different with an external flash).

2 - Second, incorrect, to a degree. This is a common misunderstanding, but one Nikon does NOT make easy to figure out:

On the newer generation Nikons - yes, if you set you flash to straight TTL, it will raise ISO 1st. HOWEVER, here's the trick: set your flash to Commander Mode, and leave the built-in flash in TTL (under commander mode menu), and now, it with behave like the older Nikons (boosting flash power before ISO). Try it.

I almost never shoot P, S, or A mode any more.

It all depends on the light I find. Shooting in A or S with appropriately set auto-ISO allows the camera wider latitude choosing the exposure. When might this be important? When shooting in wildly varying lighting. Like moving from indoors to bright sunlight at a party, or shooting at an airshow if you're tracking a plan from being backlit to frontlit through it's pass.

So you like your SS and aperture floating around without you knowing about it until after?

Bottom line: you pick the SS you need based on camera movement (1.5x focal length, etc), AND subject movement, and you pick the aperture for both DOF control AND maximum sharpness for a given lens. All compromises. Always.

I'm not a big believer in a one size fits all shooting formula. Different situations are best approached with different tools.

This I will agree on. LOVE P Mode, if I just picked up the camera and have to gun it NOW.

-- hide signature --

Sammy.

My forum postings reflect my own opinions and not those of my employer. I'm not employed in the photo business.

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