Weekly Landscape Thread: Sept 16th - Sept 22nd

Started 8 months ago | Discussion thread
shoevarek
Regular MemberPosts: 302
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Re: More from London
In reply to Mark K W, 8 months ago

Mark K W wrote:

shoevarek wrote:

The last two photographs are great. The first two also just that the HDR effect is somewhat more pronounced.

Thanks; that's good input. In 8-bit sRGB JPEG these images look a bit more overdone than in the 16-bit ProPhotoRGB I worked in. I will do a re-work of them to reduce the tone-mapped effect of the sky; I just find tone-mapping lifts the texture of otherwise dull clouds so just reached for that as first step and then bullt all the other parts of the final image from the 0EV. It's easy to do a re-generation of the output image(s) though now as I've got the layer-masks I created for these versions. I don't really use tone-mapping nowadays for much else than skies and am more experimenting with exposure-blending and luminosity-masking.

I have few questions about your process:
1) Is there any reason why you shoot using ISO below native 200?

No; not really. By default I typically shoot in ISO100 (I know that is below base-ISO for A900; it's just I come from Velvia/Provia film era and I haven't lost the lowest-ISO = highest-detail mantra). So, if I need to bring exposure times down (these were brackets so there may have been a 30+ second exposure involved), I then adjust the ISO upwards from that - hence to ISO160, ISO200, ISO320, etc.,

2) What kind of tripod and head are you using for long exposures? Do you use remote trigger? I noticed my long exposure attempts are not as sharp as I would like probably due to inadequate camera support.

I am using Manfrotto 055CXPRO3 with 498RC4 ball-head. The SSS is off, focus is manual, roughly 1/3rd into the scene or to a specific near-point I want sharp. I set the lens to f/11 or smaller, typically f/16 to f/18, shoot in manual, and make a test 0EV exposure and check the histogram before adjusting shutter-speed or dialling in exposure compensation. I use a short remote cable-release and shoot -2EV/0EV/+2EV AE brackets. If I was not doing auto-brackets, I would use MLU. Certainly would do MLU if using a longer lens over 70mm. The fact these are luminosity-masked from the brackets beings a further perception of overall image clarity and then the Nik Output sharpening also improves things further. I'm actually stunned by the clarity of the results looking on my 2560x1600 30" monitor.

Thank you for sharing. I am using Gitzo GT-0541 and Manfrotto 322RC2 grip action ballhead. I got that setup for half of its price but there are few problems with it. The tripod is rated for only 5kg of load weight and action grip over time looses its friction. I decided to go overboard in the other direction then. I bought cheap aluminium Benro A3508F tripod that is supposedly rated for 15kg of load weight. It is much heavier and it still has 4 section legs but it also uses flip locks instead of twist locks so I hope it will be more useful in sandy conditions of american South West. I have to check what are the options for A900 remote release. Currently I am using MLU and just press the shutter release button and by doing this I may also introduce additional vibrations. My new setup still awaits real test, hopefully somewhere in October I will be able to bump into Grand Canyon NP for a weekend.

When it comes to exposure my process is similar. I started using intelligent preview for that purpose, making test shot, checking exposure and adjusting manual settings or exposure compensation if I shoot using A mode. Development process is another story. Mine is completely rudimentary compared to yours. I like processing images but I am lacking in PS fundamentals, patience and consistency.

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