S100 - fine adjustment of WB

Started May 15, 2012 | Discussions thread
gollywop
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Re: Gollywop - Whibal Gray card
In reply to bill hansen, Jun 15, 2012

bill hansen wrote:

Of course ACR is the program which processes and converts images viewed in Bridge. Sorry if that really confused you. Did you really think I believed Bridge is a processing program? (No need to respond to that - I realize you were just trying to score come points there )

I was not trying to score points, Bill -- or to be insulting. I was just trying to infer from that comment whether you were just bringing jpegs into ACR via Bridge or whether you were shooting raw.

I "always" shoot RAW - by which I mean that well over 99.5% of my shots are RAW. When using the Whibal, all shots have been RAW. I haven't tried to capture a sunset when using the Whibal (I never do try to "capture" a sunset), but as I indicated in my last previous post, I've shot some images - these have been of my dogs - in very late afternoon "golden hour" light. In this light the Whibal settings would result in wildly bizarre yellow-orange colors of a dog whose actual coat is a subtle golden brown (for example). In ambient daylight indoors, the Whibal seems to result in an extremely bluish tint - nothing like the actual colors of the scene.

This is rather strange. In the golden hour, the gray card would attempt to correct for the reddish/yellow light, thereby heading for the green/blue.

One failure of mine is that I haven't written down all of the numerical color temp and tint settings which the Whibal produces in different lightings. I don't think writing these down would help with the image's final color balance, but it might have given others some insight into what the Whibal is doing in these different lightings.

The times when the Whibal comes closest - and it is never close enough so that further adjustments of WB in ACR and/or PD are unnecessary - are when the subject is in full, direct sunlight - exactly the situation where the camera's native WB preset (results in an image which is) produces images which are closest to the actual colors "seen" at the time the image was shot.

I'll continue to use Whibal for a while, hoping that there's some little trick which is not spelled out in Michael Tapes' very professorial videos, and which will result in the Whibal coming close to Mr. Tapes' "perfect" WB claim. But so far I'm very disappointed in the results.

Could you e-mail me some interesting examples of images and the gray-card shot you took in that lighting?

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gollywop

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