Indoor Lowlight sports problems

Started Feb 28, 2012 | Discussions thread
xhibit4
Junior MemberPosts: 26
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Re: Indoor Lowlight sports problems
In reply to John_A_G, Mar 12, 2012

John_A_G wrote:

xhibit4 wrote:

Pix look over-exposed to me but the LCD does not let you see that, have to learn more about reading the nuances of the Histogram, which did show the right-hand spike from the ice, but there was no blinking.

Sometimes a histogram is useful and sometimes not so much. This is not landscape or portrait photography. The truth is - in many sports shooting situations the dynamic range of the shot is greater than what the camera can achieve. So, as a photographer you have to decide what part of the photo is most important. Faces are more important than ice. If you get the faces looking good, no one cares about blown highlights in the ice. Right now, as a novice. you don't yet appreciate the importance of faces in your sports shots. You will.

. Lot of soft focus shots, not sure how much can be attributed to shutter speed or not perfectly accurate Auto-focus because of all the ice.

There are multiple factors at play:
1) 1/320 is too slow.

2) You should use single focus point only - I can't remember how many focus points on your camera are high precision. You only want to use a focus point that is high precision. I think that's center point only

3) If your subject isn't filling 3/4 of the vertical frame - you're not framing tightly enough and you can expect focus errors

4) technique - you have to give the focus system a chance to acquire your subject. In AI-Servo the camera will let you take a shot before focus is achieved. So, track your subject for a second before firing.

5) Even with all of the above, the focus system isn't perfect. Take 3-4 shot bursts. You'll likely find that 1 or 2 of the shots are sharper than the others.

Overall a result that starts to let me figure out how to get better at shooting Ice hockey, Flyers Cup starts next Friday.

You need to frame more tightly. That's the first step to getting better. The action needs to fill the frame.

Also, lots of people give sports shooting advice. Vast majority of those people don't actually shoot sports. Of those that do, a good majority do it poorly. If you want to get better you want to start looking at photos from, and getting advice from those people that do it well. Hockey is a sport I don't shoot - but I shoot a lot of other indoor sports. My advice so far is pretty basic. If you really want to get better, start asking questions and looking at shots from the people that do it well. Here's a post by someone that does it well:
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1053&message=40619484

You may not have the gear the above poster does - but the types of shots and framing should be a goal. You'll also start to see why faces are so important.

Don't ignore people in other camera systems. You'll get much better advice/help from Nikon or Sony shooters that shoot hockey well than 100 canon people that don't shoot at all or don't do it well.

So here are two shots taken a week apart, same rink, same area of rink, the solo shot (2/29/12) is 1/320, f2.8, 1600 ISO. The two person shot (3/9/12) is 1/400, f2.8, 3200 ISO. Only editing was they are croped about the same amount. Does the 1/70th sec slower shutter speed mean more than doubling the ISO. All I had to do with the rest of the pictures from the 2/29 game was crop, I will have to brighten every one of the 3/9 game. I'm shooting full manual so why the diference in brightness?

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