Cheap M43 macro kit - pix with M. Zuiko 40-150 + Marumi DHG 200

Started Jan 28, 2012 | Discussions thread
NZ Scott
Senior MemberPosts: 3,240Gear list
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Re: A good start for a novice!
In reply to Jouko, Jan 29, 2012

Thanks for the positive feedback, buddy.

Yeah, I think that if I want to get serious about macro then I am going to have to learn how to use flash. I've never really used flash before, so there is a bit of a learning curve involved. I'm going to make a diffuser for the pop-up flash and see how that works.

I've found I get sharper results with the image stabiliser turned off.

Jouko wrote:

If you are about as "green " as you say, you have done a good job here, and you are a fast learner. Your findings about the difficulties in macro work are right, and they will not go anywhere, no matter what equipment you are using... The only way to get good ones is shoot, shoot and shoot. And use the delete-button quite often.

Anyway, some tricks form the sleeve (and there are many macro shooters better than I here in this forum, more in others, follow their threats)

40-150mm lens + Marumi maight be one of the cheapest ways to go to macro in mFT-format. Best IQ is reached with stopping down a bit - and also you'll get more of DOF, as you said. If you use lowish ISO-values you'll end into blurred result - both camera shake and moving subjects. At macro distances the relative move between camera -subject is much larger than in "normal" distances - more blurred images.

Some ways to go around that: a. Shoot more, delete more ( I use this quite often, I like to have something "moving" in the photo)
b. Rice ISO to get reasonable shutter speeds, shoot more and delete enough.

c. Use flash. The built in flash is not too good for this, because the lens will cast shadow on the subject in these distances. A ring flash would be good, but also normal external flashes can be used. I use the FL50R, but the FL36R would be lighter. Normally I have an extra reflector added on the flash (lastolite-type) to get softer light and to get the light sourse on the subject. Test settings, use exposure compensation if needed.

I am not sure if IS works right with this combination at macro distances. My findings are, that when you have reasonable shutter speeds it is better to have the IS turned of in "normal" distances. I suppose the focusing distance is one factor the camera uses for IS calculation, and the macro-filter fools that - the camera does not know about it. I have to test this more for my own purposes. I have the same combination you use, but this winter season here in Finland is not the ideal macro season for bugs and flowers: everything is covered with snow...

Summa summarum: Shoot more!
Good luck!

Jouko

'The best camera in the world is the one you have with you when you need it'

http://lehtokukka.smugmug.com/
http://jouko-lehto.artistwebsites.com/

 NZ Scott's gear list:NZ Scott's gear list
Olympus PEN E-P3 Nikon AF-S DX Nikkor 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G II Panasonic Lumix G Vario 7-14mm F4 ASPH Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 40-150mm 1:4-5.6 Olympus M.Zuiko Digital 14-42mm 1:3.5-5.6 II R +9 more
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