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#4 Settings!!!
In reply to Ray Soares,
Dec 5, 2010
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General settings and tips:
1- Shoot in A mode always thinking about the right DOF- depth of field that is nice for that pic: let's say->
f1.4 to 4.0 to portraits
Landscape ->
f8 to f 9 (dont go further f11 because of difraction!)
Groups ->
f 5.6
2- Focus:
AFC with 9 points Dynamic area ->
that's it, no fancy settings->
FAST
a4 ->
release , yes, no focus priority
Set AE-L button to AF-ON -> see below:
a- Use "AF-ON button only" for focus;
b- AFC (very important ->
little movements, the target breaths, your hand shake , etc)
c- Select 9 points but w/ only selectable/visible 11 points on viewfinder
d- Always shoot a burst of 3 pics at 4 fps (and select the best one afterwards IN THE COMPUTER as its almost impossible to get the best focused one in LCD)
e- Shutter Release option (no focus lock, not even intermediate lock, as small movements of target or photographer are happening all the time and, of course, the DOF is pretty small) -> any micro delay will kill your sharpness...
f- Do not recompose->
select the active focus point that is near final position of targeted eye
g- Small crop at PP to get final adjustment
8- As I bought a f1.4 lens (remember: the cream machine...) why would I shoot at f4 / 5.6? Ok, I personally like f2.0 or f2.2 in DX for head shots, but got many good ones at f1.4 too.
h- Almost forgot: PLZ get SS at least 1/80 and up ( I would say 1/125 ideal for DX and 85mm lens ->
adjust to different equip.) ->
therefore set your auto-iso to work!!!
i- Be prepared to get "only" 50% of keepers at most...
3- If you dont like itens 1 and 2 shoot P mode and auto area ( but forget nail focus in a eye with a f1.4 lens!)
4- Buy a Capture NX2 and shoot RAW
5- Auto WB - Auto1
6- Picture Control ->
NEUTRAL
Contrast->
auto
In camera sharpness->
+4 (if you shoot jpeg go up to +6 not more than that)
7- Set a -0.3 EV permanent exposure compensation
AND set your playback to show highlights-> shoot and make an exposure compensation (almost always I had to do a EC -> see my exifs in pbase)
As the D7000 allows you to correct dark ares of pic later in PP (remember i said RAW!) NEVER let a blown up area in your pic
Usually I set a -0.3 EC to -0.7 EC.
PLZ this one of the most important things in serious photography!
8- Use later in NX2 the control points to set the right brigtness to your pics
9- I'm usually increase contrast in PP -> just a touch (5 units in Nx2)
9- Get a Polarizer filter to shoot lanscapes and did not get a blown sky. Just turn it untill you see the best colors thru viewfinder
10- AUTO ISO -> very important:
For these 2 lenses (24 mm and 70-200 VRII) and set minimum shutter speed to 1/60 and MAX iso 6400 -> w/ a f1.4 lens dont worry-> It never will get so hight, but anyway you'll have a lifebuoy to get that snap at 6400 iso...
Also set U1 for portraits and minimum shutter speed to 1/125 and U2 for lanscapes and minimum shutter speed to 1/60 or less if you shoot w/ a tripod (really dont need one)
11-- Buy a Topaz denoise 5 for Noide reduction in PP -> its incredible
12- ADL- set to low
13- High iso NR set to low
14- Any dead pixel?: just PP in NX2 using band-aid tool (I got one DP...)
15- Although a tripod is not mandatory, you need to increase your shutter speed very often because of the 16MB/pixel size etc)-> as I said people move and breath so in AFC w/ AF-ON button you can rear the lens motor moving when you are waiting the right moment to click so 1/125 for people is the minimum
For maximum sharpness in a landscape-handheld you'll need minimum 1/500!!!
But lets say 1/250 is very good. But VR helps too and you can go slower w/ VR lenses.
The landscape view you see in my pics were shoot laying the camera on a rail of the varanda (because the polarizer cuts your light by approximatelly -2EV of light!).
But I get beautiful sky. If you dont blow highlights the D7000 can return you deep colors almost like HDR but natural ones.
More later!
--
Ray Soares
See my pictures at http://www.pbase.com/raysoares
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