LX3 bounce ttl
So I tried the fl-36r (that I got for my olympus cameras) on the LX3. I have to say, the proportions are just plain dumb. The flash is easily larger than the lx3. Makes for a pretty unwieldy kit. At that point, I might as well take my e-620 + pancake and have a more manageable setup.
Yes, camera small and flash big. The big flash is needed for the bounce output. Even better for bounce is a 4xAA battery flash and I use the FL-50 that I bought for my Olympus DSLR.
Bigger than FL-36 and totally stupid combination when the flash is in the hot-shoe. So I always use that on a sidebar with an extender cable. Any one of Panasonic, Olympus or Canon flash extender cables work as they all have the contacts in the right places.
Are folks generally using their fl36's on camera with the LX3? Cause I'm not seeing how this could be done comfortably? Am I missing something?
I rarely use the huge FL-50 but when faced with say, a birthday party in a large room or hall, using the FL-50 in bounce off the ceiling works perfectly. For me P mode, auto ISO 80-200 range and fire away.
Here's the FL-50 and side bar etc with an ice-cream tub base cut and used as a forward reflector, the dimple in the plastic just happens to be there, serves no purpose except in containing ice-cream. Sitting on a tripod for this photo but I always use it hand-held.
Despite the size and weight that combination is easy to carry and use all day, left hand grabbed around the flash base and right hand through the wrist strap, sat it face down on a table when not needing it, didn't try to carry it around my neck or anything silly like that.
But that's very rare to use the huge FL-50, usually I use the pop-up or a small Nikon SB-30 flash (in self auto mode), but again it's rare that I need to use flash anyway.
As far as exposure issues go, the fl36r is performing exactly like the culman/vivitar no-name ttl flash.
If TTL is working, all flash shots within the flash range of whatever ISO you use should turn out OK. If aiming at something distant and something towards the edge of the frame is quite close, then often that quite close thing gets the correct exposure and the distance misses out. The flash (either TTL or self-auto) is quite dumb and only works on reflected light and tries to avoid burnout in any part of the frame most times, it hasn't a clue that you really want someone in the distance as the main subject, it just sums up the light bounced back on the test flash for TTL or the main flash if using self-auto.
There's no way to evenly light both near and far subjects with direct flash, using bounce off a ceiling is the only way to attack that problem. Light falls off at the rate of the square of the distance from the source, but with bounce the ceiling becomes the source and spreads the effectively lit area more evenly from near to further away. Using flash is always a compromise, it can't work miracles. The cleverly done professional flash shots may use any number of slave flashes strategically placed around the scene to even up the lighting all over.
One notable difference is that the color temp for these two flashes (as well as the built-in flash) yields 3 different color-temp values.
When flash is detected the LX3 goes to flash white balance and then it's the nature of the flash used that may vary things. You can fine tune the flash white balance in the LX3 but I never bother, I always fine tune that in post process to taste.
When I get some time, I'll put together some pictures and objective comparisons.
Work within the range stated in the specs and see how it goes, also look around for that sidebar and flash extender cable to make life easier. It is handy to have a flash on a cable if trying macro work. Even on my old Oly E-300 I never used the FL-50 in the hot-shoe, always only ever on that side bar so never had any breaking the hot-shoe accidents.