blck and white printer preference

Started Feb 12, 2005 | Discussions thread
greylady
Contributing MemberPosts: 749
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Re: black and white printer preference
In reply to Greg_E, Feb 14, 2005

Greg_E wrote:

rebelgeek wrote:

Or go the Black Only ink
route laid out by Clayton Jones
http://www.cjcom.net/articles/digiprn3.htm

Steve

Just want to shoot a couple of holes in this, but for the most
part, I agree.

  1. 1 "There is another important aspect to Black Only printing -

archival longevity. Assuming a high quality carbon ink such as
Eboni is used, BO prints have the highest longevity possible
because only pure carbon ink is used. "

Eboni ink is NOT a pure carbon pigment ink, it has dye black in it
to increase the Dmax, and help remove the warm tone from an all
carbon black ink. I use this ink in my printer with a full color
set.

  1. 2 "I recently showed a print to a good friend and master printer

who is using a full grayscale ink set on a 7500. I asked him if
the fact that it was a BO print stood out in any way, and he
replied, "Only in that you are getting better D-max than I am."

Either he is using an inkset that has really poor Dmax (like true
100% carbon black ink), or he isn't much of a master printer. I
have a 9500 which is the larger version of the 7500, and while
making CMYK profiles, I can adjust the amount of CMY in the darkest
black. You can use Quadtone RIP with the 75/9500 printers, so that
should give you control over each channel of ink. And with a
grayscale set like the MIS inks, the C & M inks are really just
lesser amounts of pigment, I think they use 75% for one color and
50% for the other. If you pile them on top of 100% black, you
either get more pigment load, producing a deeper black, or go
beyond the paper's limit and get a lighter black. Yes too much ink
can result in lighter blacks, don't really know why, but I can
(have) make (made) it happen on some papers. That just comes down
to getting the ink limits and linearity correct.

For the most part, I agree that BO printing is a viable solution,
and it works especially well on canvas! There are also ways to make
a profile that will use black only for gray portions of an image,
and still let you make color portions come out as color. So if you
are doing selective color, this is the best option. In order to do
this, you will need to use a RIP, and make CMYK profiles with
software that lets you adjust the black curve, not just some GCR
amount slider. That of course requires a much more expensive
profiling package (though the new Pulse system by Xrite/Monaco
might allow this, haven't looked at it yet).

-- hide signature --

Thanks again rebelgeek and Greg_E

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