Getting the best out of the Fujifilm X10

By max metz | Published Mar 1, 2012 |
Tagged with:

Getting the best out of the Fujifilm X10

The Fujifilm X10 is a very capable small professional camera, equipped with an equally capable lens and the overall build quality is excellent.

Once understood, the controls and menus reveal a very clever and well thought through layout. The varying robustness of the different controls also begins to make more sense – particularly the premium quality materials and build of the mode and ev dials.

This article attempts to spread my understanding of how the camera works in principle, starting with the thinking behind my approach and concludes with a chart of the how the different modes can be quickly used to suit different photographic situations. 


 

A new paradigm in professional cameras

A traditional bigger sensor is better paradigm

In the past digital cameras have perhaps fallen roughly into sensor size related image quality categories; small sensors followed by m43, then asp-c, next full frame and moving up to the high end medium format. A bigger sensor is better paradigm.

 An alternate paradigm, specialized small sensor cameras for any given task.

An alternate paradigm would be to use a different specialized small sensor camera for any given task, rather than one single do it all large sensor camera to achieve higher image quality.  

 One camera, with a configurable small sensor instead of many small specialized cameras.

The small sensor Fujifilm x10 professional camera takes this alternate paradigm and refines it, bringing a new dimension to professional cameras in that one is able to quickly configure the sensor itself to suit any particular shot.


The X10 Mode Chart 

The following chart started as my attempt to graphically understand how this works, many members of the Fujifilm forum generously helped improve the chart and hopefully it will now help many others.

 
Click on the chart, it will open in a new window. Maximize the chart size in the new window if needed, by clicking on the chart again. Use the “Save as” function in your browser to save the chart for printing.

Purpose of the X10 Mode Chart

The chart can be seen as a user addendum to the Fujifilm X10 owners manual, giving an overview of the way to quickly configure the sensor and inbuilt 4 processors to suit the demands of any given photographic situation – quickly achieving image quality far beyond that normally possible with a small sensor camera, indeed rivalling and sometimes surpassing the capability of much larger sensor cameras.

The blue line and boxes represent my personal workflow, starting out by setting the camera to M resolution and using the mode dial to quickly jump from one mode to another depending on the needs at the time.

Likely others will develop their own workflow, perhaps using the chart as an initial guide to the benefits, controls and restrictions of any mode. Some have even put a copy of the chart on their mobile phone as a quick X10 mode reference.


 

X10 image examples using the mode chart

Here are a few of my X10 post processed examples using the information on the chart, please don’t ask for original unprocessed files as I don’t do that stuff. All frames shot handheld in jpeg Provia.

 

Medium resolution (M), aperture priority (psAm), iso100, dr400

Good for capturing the detailed diffuse light not just the direct reflected light – resulting in a distinct glow. This is an architectural example; portraits are the usual beneficiary of this mode due to the wonderful skin tones available - simular effect to that seen using the Fujifilm s3pro and s5pro cameras with good glass and light.

 

Medium resolution (M), aperture priority (psAm), iso100, dr400

All the light in this example is reflected light from the glass buildings across the street. This mode, same as that used in the above example, captures the interplay of the shadows from the diffuse light sources, again a wonderful attribute to have when doing portraits.  

 

Medium resolution (M), aperture priority (psAm), iso400, dr400

Increasing the sensitivity to iso400 in this mode still sees the colour, tone and clarity holding well. Skin tones remaining faithful with shadow noise acceptable.

 

Medium resolution (M), EXR SN

 For low light shots this is one of two modes available, enabling an excellent signal to noise ratio with only one shot. In this example, the colour and tone remains true in the dim light of the Art Gallery of Western Australia.

 

Medium resolution (M), Advanced Pro Low Light

For low light shots this is the second of the two modes available, the camera takes 4 frames in quick succession, then quickly aligns and combines them with good result. If the eye can clearly see the detail in low light, this mode will likely capture the final scene pleasingly with good colour.

 

Medium resolution (M), EXR DR

When dynamic range is likely the priority, this mode quickly shifts the camera into full dynamic range priority with great result, the resulting frames have great depth when post processing.

 

Medium resolution (M), EXR DR

This example again shows the good dynamic range available by quickly changing to the EXR DR mode, picking up the ceiling lighting in the bus as well as the street detail. Notice too, the frame retains very good contrast, not the flat look often associated with high dynamic range images.

 

High resolution (H), EXR HR

This mode had been somewhat of an enigma for me, though after trying it the resulting frames show tremendous detail while keeping many of the benefits of the lower Medium resolution modes. Indeed it is possible to post process for a fairly acceptable result at 100% crop – ideal for large prints.

This mode allows very quick access to the main benefits of Large (L) resolution should the situation suit.


 

Further articles

For anyone wishing to write articles about the x10, the two areas most likely helpful being:

Shooting the X10 in Aperture Prioity

A quick guide to shooting in aperture priority, including how to use the flashing highlights, exposure graph and ev dial features to achieve the lightest possible image without blown highlights.

The camera layout assumes an understanding of at least this for maximum professional and or enthusiast control. This help would easily transfer when using any professional camera.

Making the most of the included X10 RAW to Jpeg engine.

Inbuilt into the x10 is a very powerful processing engine using 4 processors, it is capable of user conversion of raw to jpeg in camera, while leaving the original raw file intact.  


Created 11th January 2012. Edition 1. Graphics in the table are lifted from the Fujifilm X10 user manual, should Fujifilm be uncomfortable with this the graphics will be removed. CAUTION: Any information above, drawn and or written, inferred and or otherwise, is to be used at entirely your own risk.


 

18
Flag as inappropriate

The views and opinions expressed in this article are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views and opinions held by dpreview.com or any affiliated companies.

Share:
Print view

Comments

Total comments: 29
Frankie Lumi
By Frankie Lumi (2 hours ago)

Max -

This is terrific. I also figured what you mean with 'exit to default'. I too have DR set 400, I mean who doesn't want that better range in the highlights. I order to be faster, I kept the selection in the Menu on Dynamic Range so that by one click on Menu I can change if needed while all other settings for P-S-A-M-EXR are in place. This workflow makes it easy to fly blind when shooting and since RAW, AE, AF, WB, Fn, EV are all accessible without Menu access, it's a charm. This is real smartly done by Fujifilm.

I prefer the A default with 100 ASA on spot-metering instead of EXR SN. EXR SN works but I got natural lights as the scene actually looked like--in the dark on 100 ASA.

Great to set C1 and C2 for something else on purpose: C1 is my concert stage set-up now and C2 my Alex Majoli points and shoots set-up. Auto, P, Scenes, and EXR-Auto for my gf. :)

P.S. Can you explain why working in M instead of L? Better image quality? Or just screen vs. print output reasoning?

Comment edited 1 minute after posting
0 upvotes
snake_b
By snake_b (3 months ago)

What's the best way one can produce the best looking orbs possible? Based on the threads in the FTF, I'm looking to make them part of my composition.

0 upvotes
max metz
By max metz (3 months ago)

lol... very droll snake.

0 upvotes
Small Smile
By Small Smile (4 months ago)

Hi Max,

possible combination ISO (100) & DR (400%) in first & second one shots?

[Medium resolution (M), aperture priority (psAm), iso100, dr400]

Thanks

Luigi

0 upvotes
max metz
By max metz (4 months ago)

That's exactly right Luigi, in that mode the x10 captures the subtle ambient light in great detail and clarity which more than compensates for the low Mega pixels.

0 upvotes
pedroboe100
By pedroboe100 (4 months ago)

Thank you Max. Has.anyone reached a conclusion on using "auto DR" mode? Sorry if I missed it on your chart.

0 upvotes
max metz
By max metz (4 months ago)

Always setting the ISO manually, I don't know the effect of auto ISO on the chart.

0 upvotes
Luego
By Luego (4 months ago)

Hi Max,

Many users of the X10 are appreciating your chart, me included.
However, may I suggest an addition or addendum to cover the limitations the user encounters that are not covered by the Operation Manual?

It could be in form of a table or chart or a combination of the two.

See Post under Max Help!

Happy images

Luego

0 upvotes
max metz
By max metz (4 months ago)

I have seen the excellent information in your post, this chart is jammed packed so perhaps another addendum for the manual could be produced to include your information - even as a simple table.

0 upvotes
max metz
By max metz (4 months ago)

Allan, I always set the P,S,A,M iso manually using the Fn button, usually aiming for the lowest iso possible starting at iso100 – the lower the iso the more glow from the increased dynamic range. My default Dynamic Range is 400. :D

0 upvotes
max metz
By max metz (4 months ago)

Luego, I’ll repeat the answer here in case it helps someone else.

In the Advanced Pro Low Light mode the user is choosing the EV with the ev compensation dial – almost everything stems from that.

For this bus port frame, another quasi control in this mode is the amount in focus; focusing around the frame to achieve the greatest range in focus, locking that with a half shutter press then reframe and shoot. The camera system is very clever, always aiming to achieve your intent. :D

0 upvotes
Luego
By Luego (4 months ago)

Max, thanks for your inside.

Perhaps I should apply EV comp more often. My fear in these situations, since I'm shooting JPEG is the higher noise level introduced using - EV to underexpose shadows (I do not use any PP whatsoever).

However, sometimes we have to compromise between higher noise/quasi control or no control over exposure and lower noise. The re-framing is also a good point, especially since under Pro Low-Light we never know what DOF we end up with in the final image.

Happy images

Luego

0 upvotes
Luego
By Luego (4 months ago)

Hi Max,

I have a question regarding your exposure settings for the Pro Low-Light "bus stop" image.

Take a look at the comments in your galley under image.

Thanks mate

Happy images

Luego

0 upvotes
Allan Ostling
By Allan Ostling (4 months ago)

Max,

Thanks, I did not understand that "Set the P, S, A, M default" referred to setting the Resolution to L, M, or S. This is clear, now that you have mentioned it.

When I am in (A)perture priority I would like to shoot RAW only, since I have no need of a JPEG after importing to Lightroom. But setting Resolution to M is available only for RAW + JPEG, so my understanding is that this is the best setting, one which couples the RAW output to some of the magic of the EXR processor.

As a starting point for my own settings, I would like to know your settings for the P,S,A,M modes, particularly ISO and Dynamic Range.

0 upvotes
max metz
By max metz (4 months ago)

Allan, choosing the resolution first sets the default resolution for P,S,A,M; accordingly when existing back to P,S,A,M from any EXR or Advanced mode you return to that same resolution originally selected. :-)

0 upvotes
Allan Ostling
By Allan Ostling (4 months ago)

I don't fully understand the chart. I am hung up on the meaning of the first directive: "Set the P,A,S,M default." Of these, I usually shoot in the aperture (A) mode, but what is it that I am being asked to set?

What does it mean in the EXR modes, where it says "returns to P,A,S,M default on exit." What does "on exit" mean, a turning of the mode dial back to one of the P,A,S,M modes?

0 upvotes
projectdirector
By projectdirector (4 months ago)

Great work Max. I agree with previous poster, someone out there can develop an app for iPhone or android.
Cheers

0 upvotes
robenroute
By robenroute (4 months ago)

Hi Max, thanks for your article/chart. Funny this, I was writing this post to ask you to explain a few things, but when I tried to write down what I was reading in the chart, I (think I) figured it out. Just wondering what the white graphics in the chart mean; are they settings that are not advised, because of lesser picture quality?

Thanks again & regards,

Rob

PS figured the last bit out as well: those white/grey modes are just not available...

Comment edited 4 minutes after posting
0 upvotes
shutterbobby
By shutterbobby (4 months ago)

Good info there Max, as I said earlier it good to put on my smartphone,wondering if you could do some kind of Fuji app for the EXR tech... think that could be really cool
Cheers Rob

0 upvotes
solsang
By solsang (4 months ago)

Thanks a lot, really useful examples of basic use, i like the full exposed buildings showing detail without any blown out areas, plus the attention on where full size is appropriate, which i have been in doubt about

I look forward to how it will work with my polarized and nd grad filters, also using the panorama mode, which i still need to see whether is comparable to a standard autopano pro stich

0 upvotes
charita
By charita (4 months ago)

Thanks Max. This type of article should help us newbies find our way through the convoluted digital maze. Your examples are well chosen and your text lucid. Your contribution is greatly appreciated.
Cheers.
Charles.

0 upvotes
Will Hickman
By Will Hickman (4 months ago)

Very useful Max! Appreciate the effort and sharing! Well done!

Best,

Will

0 upvotes
windmillgolfer
By windmillgolfer (4 months ago)

Good article Max. I hope Fuji and/or DPR recognise and reward your generous contribution. Stuart

0 upvotes
Lloydy
By Lloydy (4 months ago)

Excellent. Whilst I don't have the X10 (yet), I certainly appreciate the effort you have put into this.

Cheers, Dave.

0 upvotes
SLLO
By SLLO (4 months ago)

very useful. thanks you!

0 upvotes
2cv
By 2cv (4 months ago)

Thanks!

0 upvotes
William Marx
By William Marx (4 months ago)

Outstanding informaton. Thanks so much for your hard work.

0 upvotes
John WFH
By John WFH (4 months ago)

Thanks again, loving all your positive help.

0 upvotes
jcmarfilph
By jcmarfilph (4 months ago)

Excellent. Thanks for sharing!

0 upvotes
Total comments: 29