Ireland: A Photographers' Guide

6

Trends affect all of us: It can be the latest equipment, new techniques and even where to go to make images. At the moment Iceland seems to be the place to go if you want to be trendy, and images of an iceberg on a lonely beach are constantly popping up all over the Internet.

Many years ago another island was the desired destination for the traveling photographer: Ireland. There were no icebergs on beaches but Ireland produced its own stereotypes: Green fields divided by stone walls, thatched and white washed cottages (or their ruins) and plenty of red-haired 'characters'.

Coumeenoole Bay and Great Blasket Island, Dingle Peninsula, County Kerry - probably one of the most photographed scenes in Ireland.

EOS 1Ds MK3; 45mm TS-E, f22; 30 seconds; ISO 100; 3 stop ND grad; tripod

Today Ireland has lost its magical appeal a bit for both the common tourist and the traveling photographer. It's hard to say exactly why this is, but part of the blame for this probably lies with the short lived economic boom, known as the Celtic Tiger, that kicked Ireland violently into the 21st century. The sudden wealth brought with it an array of side effects, both good and not so good. 

On the positive side, the road network has improved considerably over the past decade with motorways now connecting most of the big cities and good food is now available even in the smallest country pub. You even can get good coffee in Ireland now...

The dark side of this sudden development was that Ireland became one of the most expensive countries in the world and environmental issues including habitat destruction, water pollution and littering are now as common here as in the rest of the world.

Despite all these changes Ireland is still a great destination for the picture hungry traveler. In many ways Ireland is a miniature of Europe with many different landforms and environments within a few square kilometers and some of the most impressive historical buildings you can imagine. Ireland is one of the very few places where you can photograph a sunrise at a sandy beach, catch the morning light in the mountains and then visit an old ruined abbey and only travel a few kilometers in the process. 

Getting there and getting around

Ireland has a number of international airports. Belfast in Northern Ireland (which is part of the United Kingdom, as distinct from the Republic of Ireland) serves the north east, Dublin the east, Cork the south and Shannon the west of the country. There are also a number of smaller airports like Kerry (south west) and Knock (north west). Ferry ports in Belfast, Dublin and Wexford also allow to bring your own car from the UK and France.

Although Ireland has a reasonable public transport system and cycling is still very popular among visitors the best and fastest way to get around and to the photographic hot spots is the private car. Rentals are available at all airports and the only thing you need to remember is that just like the UK, the steering wheel is on the right and you should drive on the left side of the road...

When to go and where to stay

The seasons in Ireland aren’t as well deliniated as in other countries. The Gulf Stream that passes close to Ireland’s west coast brings mild temperatures that rarely drop below freezing and the Atlantic Ocean provides a lot of precipitation. Exceptions do happen though, and especially over the past few years Ireland has experienced some rather strange weather including long cold snaps with atypical ice and snow as well as heat waves.

Statistically the driest and sunniest times are around April and May and then again September and October. These months are also off-season, which means traveling around is more affordable than during June, July and August. Winter can also be a good time to visit Ireland, especially for landscape photography. Days are short and the sun stays low in the sky all day which means beautiful light. It is a gamble however because you can also end up with weeks of high winds and pouring rain. Having said that, winter storms can also provide unique photographic opportunities if you don’t put yourself and your equipment at too much risk. Freak waves and wind still kills a number of people and cameras every year. 

In my opinion the good old Bed & Breakfast is still the most comfortable and affordable option for accommodation in Ireland. Staying in smaller, more rural locations is a good way of getting in contact with locals and get some pointers for good photographic locations. 

What to bring

Photographic subjects in Ireland range from landscape and wildlife to architecture, and of course 'street' photography. The choice what to bring is therefore pretty much yours. What is essential however is a good collection of water protection and cleaning utensils. Wind, rain and salt spray is never far away and it can sometimes be tricky keeping your camera dry and the lens clean.

Apart from that there is really nothing special you need for a photographic holiday in Ireland. Just remember the battery charger and loads of memory cards and external storage. 


Click here to go to page 2 of our article 'Ireland: A Photographers' Guide' 

The views and opinions expressed in this article are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views and opinions held by dpreview.com or any affiliated companies.

Comments

Total comments: 43
hemiola
By hemiola (3 weeks ago)

I wish I could say this is an isolated case in Ireland, but frankly almost everywhere I've been the story's the same: the tourist centers at Giant's Causeway and Cliffs of Moher, the idiotic fencing spoiling the view, the much unneeded souvenir shops. In some cases you have to wait until after sunset to get proper access (Cliffs of Moher), in other cases you have to jump fences (Kinbane Head).
While the official explanation for these wonderful undertakings is "making Ireland available to the masses" or "enriching the traveler's experience" or "protecting the natural habitat", in reality it's about maximizing profit.
With very few exceptions, the unspoiled and wild Ireland is long gone. The way things are going, we might see within our lifetime the whole coast of Ireland being ring fenced, with "guides" dressed as puffins and gannets selling brochures and charging you for access.
That, in my opinion, also explains the loss of appeal in recent years.

0 upvotes
hemiola
By hemiola (3 weeks ago)

Hello again Carsten!

I read your article again recently, looking for some inspiration.
I just visited Skellig Michael for the first time, and for the most part I agree with your comments. However, there's an uglier side to it.
For one, it looks like a construction site: scaffolding, barracks, raw construction materials dumped all over the place, packaging material vividly coloring the landscape. What's more, the upper part of the island is now closed to the public, so the elevated point from which you took the picture is no longer accessible. So much for "exceptionally well preserved" and "extremely remote". Add to that the number of people constantly getting in and out of the frame, and it's pure bliss!

0 upvotes
RedRockRed
By RedRockRed (4 weeks ago)

I'm late but I'll add to more two locations in Ireland that photographers shouldn't miss:
- The Connemara region; on the central west coast northwest of Galway offers brooding vistas reminiscent of Japanese landscape paintings. The drive to Roundstone is rich ground for open landscape shooters.
- Bunglas in Co Donegal has the some of the highest sea cliffs in Europe (1800 ft) in a remote and wild setting. The access road, though, is not for the faint-hearted.

0 upvotes
annie57
By annie57 (2 months ago)

I lived in a small town called Bangor, County Down (just outside of Belfast) for almost a year and that was 30 years ago now. Unfortunately, I was not into photography at that time. But as mentioned, the Giant’s Causeway, Donegal, etc. offers some of the most prime photographic opportunities. I hated to leave the country but if you ever have the opportunity to go, it is well worth the adventure. I had never seen so many rainbows in all of my life.

0 upvotes
Ishatix
By Ishatix (2 months ago)

"North East: Mayo, Sligo, Leitrim and Donegal
Altough it isn’t very fair putting these 4 counties into one section the north eastern counties..."

This is the North West! Please correct.

0 upvotes
white shadow
By white shadow (3 months ago)

Ireland is one of the better and more interesting places for landscape photography.

Just done the Lake District in Cumbria. That will be my choice in the near future.

0 upvotes
hemiola
By hemiola (4 months ago)

Thank you for the very interesting article.
I'm an expat living in Ireland for a number of years now, but still I haven't seen (or even heard of) all the beautiful places you mentioned.
However, you forgot one of arguably the 2 most scenic landscapes in Ireland, namely Cliffs of Moher (the other obviously being Giant's Causeway).

And speaking of cliffs, another less known little gem is Croaghaun (you did mention Achill Island to be fair), the 3rd tallest sea cliff in Europe:
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/6/6b/Croaghaun_cliff.jpg

Cheers

;)

Comment edited 7 minutes after posting
0 upvotes
mehran langari
By mehran langari (5 months ago)

Thank you,. Amazing natural landscapes..

0 upvotes
Simon Devlin
By Simon Devlin (5 months ago)

Thanks for completely excluding my homeland in the North!

The Giant's Causeway is one of the most famous photography sites in all of Ireland!

tut tut

1 upvote
NIK11
By NIK11 (6 months ago)

Enjoyed the article, especially your impressions of the North. Thank you.

Comment edited 2 times, last edit 7 minutes after posting
0 upvotes
Snaaks
By Snaaks (6 months ago)

Great article. Thank you very much. Will be travelling tot Ierland in June.

Comment edited 2 times, last edit 40 seconds after posting
0 upvotes
bushi
By bushi (6 months ago)

Good job, Carsten, I am immigrant in Ireland, and am always looking for spots to visit - thanks for the ideas!

0 upvotes
Camediadude
By Camediadude (6 months ago)

Thank you, wow. Amazing landscapes.. I am a fan now! It is my dream to go to Ireland someday. (It won't happen soon unfortunately, but sooner than later, if I can help it..)

0 upvotes
Greentrees
By Greentrees (6 months ago)

great work ,thanks for posting

0 upvotes
AshMills
By AshMills (6 months ago)

Beautiful shots, in my view. Reminded me of my first holiday to Ireland with my now wife. Lovely place.

Comment edited 43 seconds after posting
0 upvotes
robonrome
By robonrome (6 months ago)

Thanks for the enjoyable article. Ireland is on my list. Lovely muted colours and moody lighting here. One question I wondered why you use F22 so often even in images that don't seem to demand that depth of field...?

0 upvotes
CarstenKriegerPhotography
By CarstenKriegerPhotography (6 months ago)

I am kind of a relic from the film era. One of the first things I was taught was "f5.6 for wildlife and f22 for landscapes" and I hung on to that for a long time. Old habits die slowly. In addition I had to use f22 with many of the images posted with the article to get a long enough exposure time for that soft water effect.
Today I aim for f8 - 16 (using mainly tilt & shift lenses for landscapes).

0 upvotes
white shadow
By white shadow (3 months ago)

@CarstenKriegerPhotography

It would be great to get to know you better to learn more about Ireland before embarking on an Ireland photography trip. Perhaps, over a few pints of Irish beer. A few pints of Kilkinney and Guinness Stout and some lamb stew would be great.

Regarding your use of f/22 for landscape, don't you think that there is too much diffraction at that aperture. Lens performance will be very low too. In order to get long exposure, wouldn't it be better to use a ND filter instead.

For me, the smallest I would go will be f/11. f/8 would be my safest aperture for best lens performance.

Comment edited 7 minutes after posting
0 upvotes
Emopunk
By Emopunk (6 months ago)

Very beautiful pictures and nice reading. Thanks for posting.

0 upvotes
Vitruvius
By Vitruvius (6 months ago)

Not a big fan of uber-HDR. Looks really fake Photoshop baked. But beautiful scenery.

0 upvotes
Przemyslaw
By Przemyslaw (6 months ago)

If you want to spend really exciting holidays, go to Ireland... I am still missing so many interesting places full of incredible island plants :D
The pictures are great however maybe little fixed to be better than natural colors ;-D
Anyway - Ireland is a fantastic place!

0 upvotes
Timmbits
By Timmbits (6 months ago)

Might it have something to do with the fact that many of them are very long exposures... 30sec, 40sec ?

0 upvotes
chris_j_l
By chris_j_l (6 months ago)

Great to see this - inspirational and may affect my holiday plans to be closer to the UK than previously - especially as Irish gastronomy is making a resurgence.

0 upvotes
Raincheck
By Raincheck (6 months ago)

Wow, that "Cultivated Landscape Near Tallanstown" shot knocks me out. Completely out of the tourist domain, there lies some of the heart of Ireland. That wedge of field rows in the center with the dry grass before, and the vast hills beyond, rolling off into eternity, is pure art. I wonder how long Krieger had to wait for the clouds to part and light it up perfectly? Then the lighted wedge in the grass that underlines it tells me he has the LUCK of the Irish. I would rub his head to try and grab luck like that.

One of my favorite methods in Landscape and a major goal of my own is to show the grandeur yes, but leave the viewer standing knee deep in the terrain. In that shot I can even smell the dry grasses.

Where do I buy a print? I'd like it signed please.

0 upvotes
CarstenKriegerPhotography
By CarstenKriegerPhotography (6 months ago)

Thank you for your kind words. I am flattered, more comments like this please :-)
I had discovered the location earlier that day and decided to come back in the evening. Conditions were good and I only had to wait half an hour or so before sky and light were perfect. The moon was an unexpected bonus. It was one of the few occasions when everything went according to plan.
Prints are available here: http://www.carstenkrieger.co.uk/moonrise-amp-countryside
CK

0 upvotes
Ashley Pomeroy
By Ashley Pomeroy (6 months ago)

You do have to wonder if he was being sarcastic.

0 upvotes
Raincheck
By Raincheck (6 months ago)

Ashley, surely it is You who are kidding.

0 upvotes
M Bakunin
By M Bakunin (6 months ago)

This guide should be titled: "Coastal Ireland: A Photographers' Guide".
A very narrow view of a beautiful country. Pity...

M.

1 upvote
John Clare
By John Clare (6 months ago)

"North East: Mayo, Sligo, Leitrim and Donegal"

As a native Irishman I can assure you that should say "North West" (and in the paragraph below). Excellent article - thanks for sharing. Surprised there is no photo of the Cliffs of Moher though.

0 upvotes
CarstenKriegerPhotography
By CarstenKriegerPhotography (6 months ago)

Thank you John and it should obviously be 'North West'. And as for the Cliffs of Moher: If you want to photograph great cliffs better go to Loop Head: less people, no entrance fee and no fences. CK

0 upvotes
seany
By seany (6 months ago)

Excellent piece Carsten, as a native it makes me feel lazy for not getting out to all these great places more often.Great pictures as well well done.
Michael.

1 upvote
B6878
By B6878 (6 months ago)

Thanks Carsten for sharing these inspirational pics that have me remembering my short trip there a few years ago. In regards to the cliffs though, what about a vote for the Bunglass cliffs, Slieve League? I was so impressed, I believe that was the highlight of my trip. Like you say, the Cliffs of Moher were very interesting and might have been the best, but way over commercialized with their parking lots, walls, and huge tourist shop. In contrast, I remember only having a few sheep to greet me at the Bunglass Cliffs, which I think I've read are the highest cliffs in Europe.

0 upvotes
CarstenKriegerPhotography
By CarstenKriegerPhotography (6 months ago)

Slieve League is indeed impressive and are a bit off the beaten track (http://www.carstenkrieger.co.uk/photo14166741.html) but are not the highest. The cliffs at Croaghaun on Achill Island are some 80 meters higher than Slieve League according to some guide books.

0 upvotes
B6878
By B6878 (6 months ago)

There's the Slieve League pic I was looking for. Might not be the highest, but knew you couldn't miss it! I like the way you caught the cloud cover. It helps bring out the magnitude of the cliffs. Real nice. Thanks.

Comment edited 27 seconds after posting
0 upvotes
Gearóid Ó Laoi, Garry Lee
By Gearóid Ó Laoi, Garry Lee (6 months ago)

Like Carsten, I live here. The colour can be amazing. It can also be frustrating as overcast skies are all too common and sunlight can be fleeting. Some of the best photos you will get here are in mist etc. While the Glens of Antrim are nice, in Co.Cork alone there are several places equally as good for photography. I think that the Burren shot is fab.

0 upvotes
Jbobs
By Jbobs (6 months ago)

Was in Ireland in Feb 2013 and the weather was very mild and no rain for 10 days - really! I also noticed that the country has reverted somewhat to the friendliness and normality of the pre-Celtic Tiger era. The only - obvious - good thing that came out of that is the road system.

1 upvote
M DeNero
By M DeNero (6 months ago)

Beautiful! Except that ultra- HDR Sunrise over the Burren. Very tacky.

0 upvotes
Bing2
By Bing2 (6 months ago)

Beauty is in the eyes of the beholder, and its not all about classic composition etc .etc.
I have been a photographer for 60 years. I like this photo.

0 upvotes
Raincheck
By Raincheck (6 months ago)

I agree with Bing2, there's no need to toss word insults to things that don't turn your crank.

I myself cannot see the need for HDR other than fanciful creation along the lines of CGI, and would like to have seen that shot more naturally. But I'm not the artist, this isn't my image.

1 upvote
CarstenKriegerPhotography
By CarstenKriegerPhotography (6 months ago)

It was a bit of a "rock and hard place" situation. The problem here was the tree. Balancing the shot with a graduated filter would have turned the top half of the tree pure black so I opted for HDR. It wasn't the perfect solution either and the top part of the sky could have turned out better. However this is mainly a software problem and I am hoping future software updates will render the sky more realistic. CK

0 upvotes
Buchanan
By Buchanan (6 months ago)

Nice article. Visited Ireland 8 years ago. Lucked into every day but 1 being sunny and even my old Canon S45 got great shots as it is such a beautiful place. Would love to go back and see more, this time with my 5DIII.

0 upvotes
SirSeth
By SirSeth (6 months ago)

Very enjoyable article. Thanks Carsten and DPR. I'd love to see continued effort to bring this type of content to DPR on occasion.

0 upvotes
Funduro
By Funduro (6 months ago)

Ireland, photographs, lots of photographs, nice. Thanks for the excellent write up and images. Must be amazing in person. Would be awesome to do it with a group amateur photographers.

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Total comments: 43