Flying Penguins: Photography in Antarctica

Antarctica is one of the most remote and extreme photo destinations in the world. It is also one of the most spectacular. I recently returned from a 5-week expedition to the Deep South (the really deep south at the bottom of the Earth, not the Southern United States), and wanted to share some of my favorite things about Antarctica, as well as some tips for shooting in such a unique environment. But first, let me explain the title: If you time your shots right, you can catch penguins flying!

A gentoo penguin launches himself in desperation to escape a breaking wave. Sea Lion island, Falkland Islands.
A rockhopper penguin launches himself over a gap in the rocks on Saunders Island, Falkland Islands.

My three favorite things about Antarctica

It's hard to choose just three things to like about a place as stunning as Antarctica, but, well, here goes...

1: Big Ice

Antarctica is the uncontested champion of big ice; the largest, oldest, and most spectacular icebergs in the world calve from its coast. Beholding these towering blue structures is an awe-inspiring experience that justifies a trip to the Deep South alone. We saw an many icebergs during our trip, but spectacular wasn’t the biggest; it was the oldest. Off the coast of South Georgia we saw a 'small' piece of iceberg B15, which you can see in the photo below.

Berg B15 was a 4000-square-mile behemoth that calved off of the Ross Ice shelf in 2000 and has slowly been breaking apart and melting since then.

The Hans Hansson, one of two ships in our expedition, investigates an enormous iceberg off the coast of South Georgia.
Sea birds circle an enormous, textured iceberg off the coast of the Antarctic Peninsula.

2: Plentiful, Friendly Wildlife

The wildlife in Antarctica, both its density and uniqueness, is another reason that could justify a trip alone. Antarctica is encircled by the Antarctic Circumpolar Current; a fast, cold current that flows clockwise around the continent. It mixes the water across the layers of the ocean and surfaces nutrient-rich water from the deep. This bounty of food, in combination with minimal human impact (at least compared to the much of the rest of the world) means any hospitable beach is literally packed with wildlife that is mostly unafraid of humans.

At our first landing spot in South Georgia, we had to drive penguins and seals off a patch of beach so we’d have enough room to land, and this wasn’t even during peak season!

Rockhopper penguins pack the beach as they prepare to enter the water to hunt. Deception Island.
Gentoo penguins, elephant seals, and fur seals mingle on the beach in Elsehul Bay, South Georgia.

3: Dramatic Light

Antarctica’s exotic and rapidly changing weather conditions create incredibly dramatic light. When combined with the astonishingly clear air, the incredible light in Antarctica makes for some stunning compositions. In fact, all too often they fall into the category of 'images that look so awesome they seem fake.' One of notably common and spectacular example is squall light, in which a beam of light breaks through dense clouds, dramatically highlighting whatever it hits while leaving the background dark and obscured.  

Squall light: An iceberg is momentarily highlighted by a beam of light breaking through fast-moving clouds. Off the coast of the Antarctic Peninsula.
 Thick lenticular clouds cast a deep shadow over a glaciated beach. Antarctic Peninsula.

Gear

My primary photography kit on this trip was the Sony SLT-A77 and a brace of lenses - the 16-50mm F2.8 G, 70-400 F4-5.6 G, and the Tokina 11-16mm F2.8.

Almost all of my photos were from the 16-50 and 70-400, which I found to match my style and complement each other nicely. I also had the Sony NEX-7 and the Sony LA-EA2 A-mount to E-mount adapter, which allowed me to mount a-mount lenses to the NEX-7 with full autofocus, as well as a full set of NEX lenses as backup.
The Petrel, a derelict whaling ship, provides dramatic foreground to the Milky Way and Magellanic clouds in Grytviken, South Georgia.

Why the Sony SLT-A77?

The Sony Alpha SLT-A77 is built around a 24MP sensor and a 2.4M-dot electronic viewfinder.

Thanks to its unconventional semi-transparent mirror design it can offer 12 frames per second shooting and its phase-detection AF system works during video recording, providing fast and positive AF during filming - a trick that no 'true' DSLR can match.

Many people ask me why I shoot with Sony equipment, and the short answer is the NEX-7, which I've found to be nearly perfect for my normal style of landscape/cityscape shooting. For this trip I went with an A77 and used my NEX-7 as a backup body with the LA-EA2 adapter. I knew I wanted an APS-C camera for the extra telephoto reach; a high resolution sensor, which would allow me to crop when necessary or print big; weather sealing for the rain and snow; and fast autofocus and a high frame rate, to capture wildlife in action.

The A77 met all of these needs for me, and its big, bright electronic viewfinder was a major plus because it allowed a live histogram, which was critical for getting perfect exposure with bright clouds and ice in the frame.  

Two king penguins dote on their chick. One will shortly return to sea to hunt. Volunteer Point, Falkland Islands.

Clothing

The weather averaged 32F (0C) during the day, so I was able to bring the standard backpacking clothing that I use in Fall trips to the Sierras: Wicking thermal base layers, fleece liner, down jacket, and a waterproof outer layer. I also had some Wellington boots that were life savers for jumping out of the Zodiac into ankle-deep water and stepping in deep puddles of muck that are ever-present in South Georgia & the peninsula.

A wool neckwarmer, 2 beanies, and warm gloves rounded out my outerwear, and I found these invaluable as the first things to put on when cold, or take off when hot. Lastly, I kept a few chemical hand warmers in my camera bag that were life savers on the coldest days.  

A Wilson Storm Petrel dances on the surface of water looking for krill. Off the coast of the Antarctic Peninsula.
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Total comments: 42
KIROVBILBAO
By KIROVBILBAO (1 day ago)

Really great images!
awesome! congrats from Bilbao Basque Country.

0 upvotes
Thakur Dalip Singh
By Thakur Dalip Singh (1 week ago)

can others go like u on private charter ship?
how much was ur cost for how many days?

0 upvotes
Matyszyk
By Matyszyk (1 week ago)

I also loved Antarctica! And yes penguins do fly! Great photos here.

0 upvotes
Mr Physics
By Mr Physics (4 weeks ago)

A very strong collection of beautiful images. Not many of us on this planet get the opportunity and you have made the best of yours.

This gives some weight to your axioms: get out there and stay out there AND treat each sunset like it's your last. These are 2 most important things I learned from reading this that apply to me. Thanks.

Comment edited 15 seconds after posting
1 upvote
Boerseuntjie
By Boerseuntjie (4 weeks ago)

I have taken some pictures of Cape penguins in South Africa and they are just a joy to watch so much personality not to mention all the crazy fornication going on ...LOL

1 upvote
dwaller
By dwaller (4 weeks ago)

A friend of mine spent 18 months in Antarctica with the British Antarctic Survey, and his blog is well worth reading if you're interested in Antarctic things. It's not explicitly a photography blog, but he's a fine photographer and the stories that go with the photographs make the photographs even more interesting. http://abinantarctica.wordpress.com/ is the site, and I believe a Canon 7D was his weapon of choice.

1 upvote
Anfernee Cheang
By Anfernee Cheang (4 weeks ago)

What a pleasure to read this article! Full of fun and enjoyment. Thanks Eric and DPR. It starts my happy Friday :-)

1 upvote
CraigB
By CraigB (1 month ago)

Fantastic article and images Eric! Antarctica has been on my "to do" list for a long time so I think it is time to get it done!

1 upvote
Nerval
By Nerval (1 month ago)

Cheers to DPR and Mr Lew,
Great pics and well written article, great content !

2 upvotes
InTheMist
By InTheMist (1 month ago)

Thanks for the excellent article and amazing photography.

1 upvote
Barney Britton
By Barney Britton (1 month ago)

Article updated with smaller watermarks - thanks Eric for supplying new versions of the pictures.

4 upvotes
Eric_1
By Eric_1 (1 month ago)

Thanks Barney!

0 upvotes
Alan C. Tigner
By Alan C. Tigner (1 month ago)

I spent seven days traveling and landing along the north coast of South Georgia last November on a Quark expedition. I can attest to the descriptions of the spectacular landscape and abundant wildlife. This was my first trip "off the grid" and I will cherish the memories for the rest of my life. We were early in the season and witnessed some spectacular bouts between bull elephant seals protecting their harems. In addition, the king penguins and their chicks were plentiful. Of note, we also saw the last oof the South Georgia reindeer that were scheduled culled from the island as summer came to an end.

This was a South Georgia only trip so I guess I'll have to go again to set foot on Antarctica.

Great article.

Comment edited 2 minutes after posting
1 upvote
Eric_1
By Eric_1 (1 month ago)

Thanks Alan - we were traveling in the middle of the culling actually. We saw lots of corpses getting eaten by skuas and petrels. The science team removed most of the meat and just left the skin and digestive systems, which apparently the skuas mostly avoid anyway. I was sad not to have gotten to see any of the big elephant seals fights; they sound spectacular!

0 upvotes
ChuckB
By ChuckB (1 month ago)

Excellent article and photos. I have just returned from an Antarctic trip and agree with almost everything you said, but......

You had a lot of opportunities I didn't, because I took a regularly scheduled trip instead of a custom private trip. The Petrel and stars photos (cool!) was not an opportunity I had - we were on board ship at night. Same goes for sunrise and sunset - on board, not on shore. Also, one of the photos ops you missed because it required super-quick reaction time? All our excursions were scheduled, not opportunistic. So, photo enthusiasts should be aware of the limitations of the trips they choose.

Exposure: I used a Sony A580 and A55, shooting raw. Maybe I was lucky, but there was not a single one of my shots with blown highlights. I typically shot aperture-preferred to get the sharpest photos, and let exposure take care of itself with auto-ISO. Editing in LR I was always able to recover any highlights. Go figure.

2 upvotes
ChuckB
By ChuckB (1 month ago)

Weatherproof cameras: obviously, mine weren't (nor were the lenses). I used a waterproof sack to carry the camera bag one time, thinking that zodiac travel was the greatest danger in terms of getting wet, and then left the sack in the cabin and relied only on the camera bag. I shot in snow and light rain, but kept the camera in the bag when not shooting. the cameras performed perfectly. I mention this because although weather is a risk, you have to balance that against buying a very expensive camera to get weather sealing. (OTOH it's a great excuse with your spouse to get a new camera.)

Shooting icebergs and scenery: pay special attention to composition and the placement of "objects". You can take a lot of boring photos if you don't. Especially when you're on board and moving, the composition changes every second, so be on the lookout for pleasing arrangements of, say, the icebergs between you and the mountains/shorelines.

1 upvote
ChuckB
By ChuckB (1 month ago)

Finally, total agreement and can't say it often enough - shoot AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE. One of my best penguin photos was of a mother giving the skank-eye to her pair of roughhousing chicks. I didn't see it in the viewfinder, but I shot several photos and one of them was a winner. All the electrons you use are free *and* recycled.

Comment edited 4 minutes after posting
2 upvotes
Eric_1
By Eric_1 (1 month ago)

Thanks for the reply Chuck. Yes, it was incredibly fortunate to have the private charter, and I think this was definitely a once-in-a-lifetime trip! I've always found Sony cameras (I had an a200, a700, a850, and NEX7, in addition to my A77), err on the side of underexposure and preserving highlights. So much so that I generally set my camera on +0.3EV when shooting on aperture priority.

2 upvotes
Steven-T
By Steven-T (1 month ago)

Excellent use of light. Fantastic work.

2 upvotes
Jay557799
By Jay557799 (1 month ago)

It is inspiring to see my favorite camera produce such outstanding images in the hands of a great photographer.

2 upvotes
marike6
By marike6 (1 month ago)

Beautiful images of some of my favorite critters. Penguins are fascinating creatures and you've captured them, and the other arctic wildlife thriving in their natural habitats, extremely well.

The watermark? It's not such a big deal. With such a terrific set, that are the result of an extraordinary commitment and effort on your part, it is better to play it safe and protect your images.

By the way, the 70-400 performed so well do you think the new G2 version is in your future? It's such a useful zoom range it makes me wish the new Nikon 80-400 VR had a more sane price tag in line with the Sony 70-400 G and G2.

Anyway, great job and thanks for the inspiring images and article.

3 upvotes
Eric_1
By Eric_1 (1 month ago)

Thanks for the kind words Marike - I have thought about the 70-400 G2. It certainly would be useful to have a fully weather sealed kit. I'm also intrigued by the Sigma 50-500, which Roger Cicala over at LensRentals.com rates very highly as well.

1 upvote
digidownunder
By digidownunder (1 month ago)

Dont reduce the watermarks,your photography is too good to have it just ripped off by online image seller scavangers,protect them at all costs.

2 upvotes
Sonyshine
By Sonyshine (1 month ago)

A terrific series and good to see a Sony camera being pushed hard to takes these wonderful shots!

2 upvotes
Hugo808
By Hugo808 (1 month ago)

Great photos but does the copyright logo have to be so intrusive?

2 upvotes
AngshuArun
By AngshuArun (1 month ago)

A great article, very much informative. The photographs are just too good and they show the effort that you put for capturing them.
thank a ton for sharing.

regards

2 upvotes
berni29
By berni29 (1 month ago)

Hi

I enjoyed reading that, and the images are lovely. Thank you for taking the time to create the article. Many of the lessons can be applied to the more ordinary but challenging situations that we might find ourselves in.

1 upvote
day2012
By day2012 (1 month ago)

Superb images and they are matched by your excellent descriptions and explanations. I can see what people are saying about the watermarks, but there is so much to be learned here - they didn't bother me so much.

3 upvotes
Camera5
By Camera5 (1 month ago)

Gorgeous work. Real pity about the watermarks.

3 upvotes
Eric_1
By Eric_1 (1 month ago)

Thanks for reading all! I think it is a fair point about the watermarks. I'm working on downsizing them now.

2 upvotes
Amateur Sony Shooter
By Amateur Sony Shooter (1 month ago)

Congrats Eric for your successful trip. You added some more fine images in this article since your last post at Sony forum. I enjoy each and every one of them. Well done!

3 upvotes
tlinn
By tlinn (1 month ago)

What outfitter did you travel with? Was the expedition photo-centric?

Comment edited 28 seconds after posting
1 upvote
Eric_1
By Eric_1 (1 month ago)

The trip was a privately chartered expedition organized by Stewart McPherson, a professional naturalist!

0 upvotes
tazmac
By tazmac (1 month ago)

Nice one!

2 upvotes
tlinn
By tlinn (1 month ago)

Love the article, Eric. What an experience.

I do agree that, at the very least, a smaller watermark would enhance the enjoyment of your images. Love that Petrel shot (the ship).

Comment edited 9 minutes after posting
5 upvotes
M Lammerse
By M Lammerse (1 month ago)

2 great stories, one in words - one in images, thanks for sharing!

2 upvotes
JimmyMelbourne
By JimmyMelbourne (1 month ago)

Congratulations Eric Lew, its all about the photographer but i am one happy Sony a77 owner seeing your work. simply brilliant.

2 upvotes
nz769r
By nz769r (1 month ago)

A very fine discussion with beautiful photography Eric. Well done!

1 upvote
Alpha Whiskey Photography
By Alpha Whiskey Photography (1 month ago)

Agree. The watermarks are the only thing I see. Major distraction.

2 upvotes
GreeneOH
By GreeneOH (1 month ago)

There may be some great photos here, but I find the watermarks so obtrusive that I can't really tell. I understand that pros are sensitive about protecting their work, but if you're going to write a public article emphasizing photography seems a shame to vandalize the photos to this extent.

7 upvotes
Edward Pang
By Edward Pang (1 month ago)

I agree, the pictures looks fantastic, but watermarks is not impressive. Why not try digital watermark?

0 upvotes
Eric_1
By Eric_1 (1 month ago)

Some fair points here. I'm working on reducing the size of the watermark. Piracy is better than obscurity, I suppose.

1 upvote
Total comments: 42